John, you are right, I do have to do some exploring, and this is the
beginning! I love mechanics(even though i'm not one), and I love my van. My
van is such a strong runner when running that I don't want to give up on it.

I have never had the fuel lines or injector nozzle hoses changed, I will
take your advice on that. I would hate to have a fire. Any reputable vendors
you recommend?

Distributor looks good, and that is a good tip for checking the wires w/
timing light. I know I need to get an updated Bentley, but could you tell me
where the ISV is located exactly?

thanks again.

-chris

On 2/14/07, John Rodgers <inua@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Chris,
>
> Sounds like you need to do some personal exploring of your van and learn
> of it's condition first hand. It is the unknowns on these vehicles that
> will eat  your lunch or just plain bite you in the butt! I know....... I
> have two 88 GL's!
>
> First, looking at the picture of the engine bay raises a really big
> question immediately.......
>
> Have  you ever had the fuel lines and injector nozzle hoses changed
> since you bought it?
>
> If not - DO IT NOW! These vans are seriously prone to catching fire and
> burning due to fuel line failure caused by old age and rot. It will cost
> you about $60 to $75 in a parts kit from one of the list vendors, and a
> bit of time - it's a do it yourself task - and it is relatively easy. Do
> yourself a favor .... and all of us as well .... change those hoses
> ASAP.  You will hate yourself if it burns, and we all will hate to read
> about it. So "Get'ter done, Boy!"
>
> On other things it will be somewhat of trial and error.
>
> Start by pulling the Distributor cap and inspect it. If OK, re-install,
> start the engine and warm it to full operating temp. Turn the engine
> off, Then disconnect the wire at the end of the idle stabilizer
> valve(ISV). Start it back up and check the idle speed. Should be around
> 900 rpm. Drive it just a bit  and see how it performs. If there is no
> weirdness, you may have a stabilizer system problem. otherwise, no. In
> the former case make ready  for further checking.
>
> You can check wires for proper firing by putting a strobe timing light
> on the plug wires. Faults will show in the light.
>
> Leave the ISV disconnected, but disconnect the O2 sensor screwed into
> the catalytic converter.  There is a connector on the cable about 18
> inches out from the sensor itself. Disconnecting will put the ECU into
> default mode Run the engine, observe the characteristics. If you have a
> bad sensor, the operation of the engine should smooth out now that it is
> removed from the system.
>
> ECU's do fail, but it pretty rare.
>
> When looking down on the engine, you will see a hose coming off the ISV
> which goes to the Air Flow Meter (AFM). Check this for holes. Also,
> directly under this AFM hose is a hose that also connects from the AFM
> to the Crankcse Vent Tower. Be sure that this hose is in good shape. It
> is bad to rot out and cause the engine to operate strangely.
>
> Hope these few things help. I'm sure there will be others, many more
> comments by other list members for sure.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Regards,
>
> John Rodgers,
> 88 GL Driver x2
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Chris Lisica wrote:
> > All, thanks for contributing to such a great list. I've thoroughly
> > enjoyed
> > combing through the archives the last few days. Very informative!
> >
> > However, my 88vanagon is having a couple issues that I was not quite
> > able to
> > pinpoint, and was wondering if I could get a few pointers. First off,
> > I can
> > turn a wrench, take things apart and reassemble when explained, but
> > i'm not
> > a certified VW mechanic. Second, it's not my daily driver, i've put on
> > maybe
> > 10K in the last 3.5 years. When I bought it, my mechanic put in new cap,
> > rotor, wires, plugs, and filters. Everything ran fine for the first
> year.
> > The last couple years I've had the issues.
> >
> > Issue #1: During normal driving conditions, at stop, it will be idling
> at
> > 900 rpm's, then suddenly it will dip down to 400rpm's, jump up to
> > 1400rpm's,
> > then suddenly die. Sometimes, it will start up again, but lately, it
> > won't.
> > I have to let it sit for 5 minutes, or roll it down hill, and clutch
> > start
> > it. Then, race home, trying not to let it get below 2000rpm's.
> >
> > Issue#2: Perhaps unrelated, or related, lately it's having a real hard
> > time
> > starting. It will crank and crank and it seems as if one cylinder is
> > catching, but the others are not. Then, it will start to fire ( i
> > think ),
> > cylinder by cylinder, then be fine. It will idle for about 5 minutes,
> > normally(good strong idle), then die. Then, I can't get it to start.
> > Where
> > i'm at now, it won't start.
> >
> > Any ideas/suggestions/comments/plan of attack would be greatly
> > appreciated!
> > If you have any parts swap recommendations, please tell me where they
> are
> > located as I have an outdated Bentley(83). For reference, here's a pic
> > of my
> > engine bay:
> >
> > http://i18.tinypic.com/2zs0375.jpg
> >
> > Thank you, thank you, thank you.
> >
> > -chris
> >
> >
>
>
>