On Feb 26, 2007, at 12:52 PM, Giasson, Pascal (DNR/MRN) wrote:

> Just a few other points to consider also.  The silver bubble wrap
> reflect radiant heat to the inside and outside which increases it's
> effectiveness at keeping the heat in or out.  I doubt that with all
> the
> other sources of heat entrance or escapes that it will make much
> difference what is used, but the foam material is definitely cheaper
> that the bubble wrap.  Whatever you use do not use anything that can
> hold moisture like the OE fibreglass stuff.  I did not glue my
> insulation in place as I wanted to be able to easily remove to
> re-rustproof.  Also, I did not bother with vapour barrier, way too
> hard
> to do a good job in the westy...too many factory holes
> everywhere...and
> I like the holes and gaps to allow any moisture that does
> inevitably get
> in to get out fast in.

The vapor barrier is a critical element.  Vapor migrates from warm to
cold, so if you stop it from traveling to where the dew point is,
somewhere in your insulation, w/ the vapor barrier, it does not form
at all in your insulation.  Now if it is warmer on the outside than
the inside, then the flow reverses direction & you trap it in the
insulation.  But generally, vapor barriers are always put on the warm
or inside of the insulation. The best way to do this is like the
current auto mfrs' do, glue a continuous vapor barrier over the
entire wall/ceiling/floor w/ as few holes as possible, & then place
your finish panels over it. A reflective foil works even better than
plastic sheathing, as it reflects radiant heat like mentioned above.

>
> BTW, nothing beats a good sleeping bag and another warm body to keep
> warm while camping ;o)

I use a 0-20 degree F bag all year, just opened or spread out
differently depending on air temp, SO next to moi or not.

Tom B.-can you say low emissivity (low E) barrier?