When i first bought my van i noticed the cable was cut about 4 inches short
(frayed and rusted the rest of the way), folded over and crimped, with a
piece of random piano wire going the rest of the way. It worked.....but it
looked like it wasnt very secure so I put in a new cable (not to hard to do
in my mind, or expensive). Sure beats piano wire and a return spring. What
really caused us to replace the cable was several occasions in which the
pedal got stuck at the floored position, and was very hard to "pull up"
on....even with your hand!
Best of luck to you.

-Craig
'85GL Sunroof

On 3/9/07, rpc <populuxe59@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> David,
>   Mine was frayed near the engine.  I picked up a "cable coupling". Very
> cheap. you put one end in and tighten the screw, do the same to the other
> side.  Never needed it.  Had mine replaced about 3 years ago but I keep it
> in my emerency use only,road side repair bag with tubes, hose clamps, wire,
> duct tape, coil, etc---Never needed that either.  Ever.
>   Good Luck,
>   Chris C
>
>
> David Clarkson <Dvdclarksn@AOL.COM> wrote:
>   While changing out the boot on the engine end of my 1990 Westy's
> throttle
> cable the cable frayed down to the last metal thread and I removed the
> solid
> metal end and considered it broken. I should probably go ahead and replace
> the
> cable but thought about possibly repairing the cable with a roll pin type
> piece with some liquid weld and crimping. Maybe this is only prolonging
> another
> failure. I should probably be happy that the failure occurred in my
> driveway
> vs. on the road. Has anyone on the list made a successful repair to the
> end of
> the cable at the engine and if so what worked? Thanks again to all that sh
> are the wealth of their experience and knowledge with all of our Brethren
> in
> Vanagon.
>
> David Clarkson
> 90 Westy (236k-loyal, dependable, never let me down miles!)
>
>
>
>
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