Yah in terms of what part of switch wears, I have come to understand
that too. Totally makes sense. Even with my limited knowledge of
electrical.

In spite of that limited knowledge, I did decide to move local of fan
resistor  ;^)

On 4/1/07, Karl Wolz <wolzphoto@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> You only need the relay for the highest speed setting, since that is the
> only one that uses full voltage through the switch, or so I've been told.
>
> Karl Wolz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> neil
> Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 6:38 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Attn: Electrical Gurus! (I searched archives)
>
> Hi Matt.
>
> Thanks for all that info.
>
> I'm always impressed with how much the list knows and contributes!
>
> I had heard of someone thinking of using a relay in the circuit a la
> the headlight upgrade. But as you said it then becomes one relay per
> speed. Kinda what I thought would happen.
>
> I decided to go with stock. (See previous posts) In fact I just got
> back from parts place with new switch. Picked up new wiper shaft
> assembly, but am still waiting on bushings for brake pedal.
>
> Brake pedal bushings??
>
> I should know better. What started out as new fan, and wiper stuff has
> become oh so much more!
>
> This is getting to be like a kitchen/bath reno on a heritage home fer
> cryin out loud!
>
> Neil.
>
>
> On 3/30/07, Matt Roberds <mattroberds@cox.net> wrote:
> > > From:    neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
> > > Date:    Fri, 30 Mar 2007 12:46:27 -0700
> > >
> > > As a last resort, I would install a toggle (SPDT?) and wire it for
> > > an "off" "low" and "high" setting.
> >
> > A SPDT center-off toggle switch would probably do what you want.
> >
> > > What are the stock fan speed switches rated at?  12V DC, but how many
> > > amps?
> >
> > Only VW knows for sure.  One way to guess is to look at the size of the
> > fuse for the fan motor circuit - buy a switch rated at least that much
> > and you can't go too far wrong.  If you have a multimeter with a 20 A
> > range, you could set it up for that, turn the fan on "high", and pull
> > out its fuse.  Then put the meter probes in the fuse socket in place
> > of the fuse (the fan should start up again) and see what it reads.  Look
> > for a switch with an equal or better rating.
> >
> > > Has anyone else found a better "mousetrap" in terms of a better
> > > quality 3 spd. fan switch?
> >
> > One thing some American cars do is use a relay to connect the fan motor
> > directly to the battery for "high".  This means the switch doesn't have
> > to carry the full current of the fan motor.
> >
> > If the problem with the VW switch is that it tends to burn out
> > electrically, rather than break mechanically, you could extend this
> > theory to having the switch run relays for _all_ speeds.  You'd end up
> > with a big wad of relays under the dash somewhere, but at least most of
> > the electrical load would be off of the switch.  If the switch tends
> > to break mechanically, you're SOL.
> >
> > I have also seen ready-made remote switches that might work.  These have
> > a box with a relay that goes under the dash and does the heavy lifting.
> > Then they have a tiny switch panel on the end of a thin wire - the panel
> > looks nice and it's easier to hide the thin wire.  Some of these are
> > just one-circuit on-off but you might be able to get something fancier.
> > Try a local car stereo/car alarm shop to see what they have.
> >
> > You might also look in a "generic" hot rod catalog like Summit or Jeg's.
> > There might be a switch for street rodders that you could use.
> >
> > NAPA might be another source.  They carry some "generic" electrical gear
> > for big trucks and old vehicles that you might be able to use.  It won't
> > be cheap but it's usually pretty decent stuff.
> >
> > Matt Roberds
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
>
> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
>
>

--
Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.

http://web.mac.com/tubaneil