Don't overlook the 2 small rubber hoses for the rear brakes. These can
develop a bubble in their walls and this prevents much fluid pressure
from reaching the rear wheel cylinders. Look closely at the rear
trailing arm pivot areas and check out these hoses.

Also, what did you see when you had the rear drums off? Any sign of
leaking at either wheel cylinder means you should replace them both.
Even just a dark area around one of the 4 rubber boots means a leak.
Lift the edge of any suspect boot and if any fluid is visible it is bad.

Finally, if there is any wear lip on the edge of the drum braking
surface get the drums turned and install new shoes.

Mark

neil wrote:

> Hi all.
>
> First off thanks for help on brakes (bleeding)
>
> FWIW, I used the gravity method to bleed brakes. (no time to get parts
> together to build power bleeder) Did one wheel at a time. Went around
> twice. First time some bubbles came out the fronts, second time
> nothing but fluid. A few tiny bubbles came out drain bleeder on Pside.
> Regardless, getting them out really helped things. Much improved
> though pedal will still bottom out to metal if pressed hard.
>
> I hammered on the brakes (it's raining, so better for testing me
> thinks) and Dside ass end came around. Not totally, but enough to make
> me think rears are out of adj. Fronts have even wear and pads/rotors
> hardly worn at all. I'm taking it in to have a power bleed done and
> rear shoe adj. done as well.
>
> Anyways...
>
> Things are on track and if this work at "Beetle Spa" doesn't help,
> then I dunno what I'll do. Maybe a caliper/rotor upgrade??
>
> ;^)
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
>
> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
>