This is actually common practice. It is very easy to drill and re-tap the
coolant manifold for the Syncro style sensor, thus getting the original
system with a new engine attached to it.

Dave

On 4/19/07, Jim Akiba <syncrolist@bostig.com> wrote:
>
> What about just using a stock syncro sensor?  If the subie coolant is
> around
> 180, you should have no trouble. The zetec coolant is usually around
> 192-200, and the stock syncro sensor screws right into one of the stock
> sensor bungs in the t-stat housing. If you could find a bung on the subie
> system and adapt it you should be fine.
>
> We don't re-calibrate, and other than the gauge reading higher than it did
> with the boxer everything works fine.  The dash gauge should only be used
> as
> backup or ballpark anyhow IMO because it isn't very accurate to begin
> with,
> with lot's of variance based on wiring conditions van to van... and if
> something happens and the passage runs dry, you'll have no idea what's
> going
> on until it's too late.
>
>
> Jim
>
>
> ________________________________________
> Bostig Engineering
> Engine Systems Voodoo
> http://www.bostig.com/
> 617.272.3800
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Drillock [mailto:drillock@EARTHLINK.NET]
> Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 12:51 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Temp Gauge calibration with Subaru engine
>
> The problem is that your approach only calibrates for normal temp. It
> does nothing to address the issue I expressed doubt about. The VW temp
> gauge has an over temp warning led circuit built into the gauge to get
> the driver's attention when the temp is too high. How does your resistor
> affect the point at which this warning is triggered?
>
> Mark
>
> Paul Guzyk wrote:
>
> > In my experience, Subie engines run normally at about 178-183 degrees C.
> >
> > When installing a Subaru into a Vanagon, I now use the Subaru single
> > wire (for dash)  temp sender and the B10 scan tool
> > http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/b10scan/  with an old PC to
> > initially ensure the engine is running at proper temperature (the B10
> > software uses the Subaru two wire ECU temp sender).
> >
> > Once the engine is consistently running around 180 degrees, I then
> > try different resisters (15-30 ohm usually) inline with the single
> > wire Subaru temp sender until the Vanagon dash temp gauge is right in
> > the middle (over the LED).
> >
> > That's how I calibrate the dash gauge with a Subaru engine.
> >
> > Note, the B10 scan tool is for 90-94 engines.  I don't think it works
> > on newer engines.
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >> As to David's issue, this is something that has long troubled me about
> >> the method used by many Subaru engine conversions to adjust the Subaru
> >> temp sender to the Vanagon dash gauge. Many do this with a resistor,
> >> selecting a resistor value that when put in series with the Subaru
> >> sender gives a temp gauge reading they are happy with on the Vanagon
> >> gauge under normal driving. How this combination of parts could be
> >> expected to give consistent readings at all engine temperatures is
> >> beyond me but I have not verified that it doesn't.
> >>.........
> >> Mark
> >
> >
>