>Sounds like you're talking about my post.  When I said the 'tabs' were
>broken, I should have said the mounting wells (i.e. screw holes) were
>cracked and broken.  This is where the failures typically occur.  Hot
>glue is probably not going to cut it, IME.  I repaired mine with JB
>Weld.  I pulled the housing out and remove the speedo from its mount.  I
>used a mesh tape (used for drywall repair) and JBWeld to build up the
>corners, both inside (where the speedo goes) and out.  After hardening
>overnight, I used a dremel and a sanding block to fair the surface so
>the speedo would sit flush, and to route out a 'shelf' on the inside so
>the ridge on the speedo face would fit.  Drilled pilot holes for the
>screws and voila', no more problems.  It still bounces a tiny bit
>between 50 and 60, but pretty stabile and no noise.  Before, the noise
>was so bad I disconnected the cable 'cause it was simply unbearable.
>
>Keith Hughes
>'86 Westy Tiico (Marvin)

Sounds like a great idea Keith. That JB weld is amazing stuff. Mike Collum
e-mailed me and also gave me a great suggestion, which was to glue a
screw, technically a bolt, in place with JB Weld, essentially making a
stud, and then putting a nut on top. Fortunately, there seem to be just
enough plastic left to use a longer sheet-metal screw. I used a brass
bushing (imagine a straw made out a brass) that slipped over the screw to
take up the slack, and support the corners. It seems to be pretty stable,
and certainly much stronger than hot melt glue on the flat sections.

I thought I was home free, but my speedometer is still jumping. I no
longer think it's due to vibration of the instrument cluster, there's just
no flex there than I can see. Mike suggested rotating the cable as I was
driving until the display stabilizes. Well, this works for a range (either
50-70) or a low range like 10-30. I can't seem to get a nice steady (non-
jumping) needle throughout the range. Very frustrating-- not to mention it
can make a person very dizzy to watch the display while driving!

One additional e-mail from Mike suggested that the cable may not be
securely fastened along its length. I basically had zero cable ties, so I
went and installed about five or six of them. Absolutely no change in the
results. I then thought I had the cable pushed through the firewall a
little bit too far, (so that the cable was under a bit of tension against
the pack of the speedometer), so I backed it off a little bit, but that
didn't work either.

I just don't get it. I see absolutely no bends or kinks along the length
of the cable. The speedometer itself is now securely attached to the
instrument cluster. I tried the slight rotation of the cable as Mike
suggested.

From what I see, I'm just going to have to accept the jumping needle at
the lower end. At least it doesn't drive me crazy at highway speeds!

Thanks again for all the help. I wish I could have fixed this thing more
to my liking, but I just don't see the solution.

Best,

Troy