Mark,
  Thank you,
  This gives me a much better understanding how these switches work.  It's a good thing that VW made the high pressure switch this way.  This makes me think it is my actions with the connector, not too low a pressure issue.

  Is there any good reason I should/could not just ditch the connector and solder and shrink tube the wires together?
  Thanks

  Mark Drillock <drillock@earthlink.net> wrote:
  Sorry to break it to you but the high rpm oil switch works the opposite
way. If it had a bad connection or was unplugged the buzzer and light
would go off above 2000 rpm. That means you must have done something to
make the connection worse, assuming the new symptom is related to the 2
pin oil switch junction in the engine compartment.

The low rpm oil pressure switch works the old fashioned way,
disconnected = no oil light.

Mark

Nathan Mc Blain wrote:

> After the coments recently about cleaning up corroded connectors, yesterday I did. Esp. the shielded not sealed ones that I havn't checked. Some were really bad, tried to clean some and replaced a few connectors. BTW whats a good replacement for better spade connectors, maybe ones that would be more sealed up?
>
> The two wire connector for the oil pressure switches was in poor condition, cleaned it up some, but really want to replace. Tonight when driving the pressure light and buzzer came on. Was my oil pressure always low and now that the contacts are cleaner is telling me so or what's up? Should I worry and find a way to test it? If so what would be the easiest way?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> Nate
> 1990 Flash Silver non GL
> Orange County, CA
>

    Nate
  1990 Flash Silver non GL
  Orange County, CA