if you didn't line bore the case that is most likely your problem thinks
me.

jonathan

On Sat, 5 May 2007, Thomas Pfrommer wrote:

> Dear VW community,
> I know this is a well-discussed problem and I read lots of threads and
> goolged even more, still I would like to get a few more insights as  I
> don't know where the problem might be.
> I am talking about my 1987 Vanagon, 2.1l waterboxer, Digifant, automatic
> transmission.
> I had a bad oil tube to the third main bearing, and ignored a bit too
> long (10km on and off  ) the oil warning light/buzzer. OK that blew one
> the bearing. I took the engine out, completely took it apart at took the
> parts to the machine shop so that they could machine the crank, the
> heads, the cylinders, the cam and cleaned all junk out of the case. I
> got a new gasket set, new oil pump, certainly new bearings, new drive
> shafts/gears (distributor and cam). OK during spare times in the winter
> a good friend and me built it together. Great! We brought it back into
> the car, fired it up and it ran right away!!
> Now first we experienced low oil pressure if the engine warmed up. It
> was to overcome by slightly tipping on the accelerator but OK thats not
> good. So i changed the relief valve spring which I should have done in
> first place, changed the 0.9bar switch and also changed to 20W50 as I
> first had 10W30 synthec. Certainly I also changed the oil filter right
> away (Mahle, black).
> After restarting, the temperature display would not move. After
> rebleeding and no change, i changed the sender, and it worked. OK it did
> work in first place when i first experienced the bad oil pressure and
> now just bad lick I guess. Well anyway this problem is fixed. But after
> warming it up I again get the pow oil pressure buzzer. No blinking
> though while idleing or slightly lower rpm, do the 0.3bar sender does
> not indicate, but the 0.9bar kicks in after warming it up and going
> above 2600!! Hm Why 2600 and not 2000? Do I have the right oil pressure
> at 2000 and then it drops? Hm very weired. OK I unplugged the 0.9bar
> sender at the cable where it connects to the wiring from the harness and
> watched when the buzzer comes on now just to see if the electronics
> work. OK same thing again 2600 it comes on.
> OK something in the electronics does not work exactly as it is supposed
> to do, but anyway the low oil pressure is for real
> , I guess. What the hack is going on? A problem with the new oil pump? a
> missing gasket? Not that I know, we added the flat gasket between case
> and pump, and the other flat gasket with additional holes between cover
> (not new though .. will change when I have to open it again) and pump.
> Now after inspection, I do not see any material between case and pump
> ... was there a groove for this gasket? i don't know any more. But I do
> see the flat gasket between cover and pump. Hm now after thinking a bot
> more, is this gasket OK to have here? I know some explosion drawings
> show it, some not. Should the gears touch the cover to not let oil
> bypass them? With this gasket of ~1mm certainly oil can bypass the gears.
> Or, did the shop recommended the wrong set of main bearings -- they
> said, the original sized ones will fit, and i just do not have enough
> back pressure to maintain 2/3 bar above 2000rpms? (Please not as I do
> not really feel to open everything until the last screw again)
> I know that without any real oil pressure gauge nobody can help right
> now, so i will install a mechanical gauge and see what the real pressure
> says. however, as the 0.9bar sender is new (Hey what a pain to install
> with the engine in the car), I am quite confident, that the problem is
> insight (unfortunately).
> If the main bearings are a little bit too large, would the heavy duty
> oil pump overcome this problem? I guess it depends on how far off i am
> with my pressure, well just below 0.9bar I guess, as a small tip on the
> accelerator shuts the buzzer off. But it should have anyways between 2
> and 3 bar, and not somewhere around 0.9 bar.
> I would greatly appreciate if anyone could help me with this problem or
> experienced the same error and found a solution. I do not see any oil
> drop. However there is a little bit near the oil pump, but not a lot,
> even after running it for 20/30 minutes (I did not longer terms, as I am
> afraid to damage something .. even if the buzzer was not on)
> Why does the switch to the 0.9bar sender comes at 2600 rpms and not at
> 2000? The green wires are connected to the ignition coil. There are two
> open yellow connectors near the electrical ignition system box, which
> are not connected, and I think they were not when I took the engine off,
> but I am not sure. Do i have to connect them? I could not find from the
> Bentley for whet they are there.
> I hope that was not too long.
> Please let know what you think. I will keep you posted, what the oil
> pressure gauge says, once I have found one and the right M11x1 adapter
> to the 0.3bar thread.
> Thanks
> Thomas
>
>
>