Hi Jonathan,
thanks for your reply .. line bore? I apologize for my ignorance,  but
could you please explain to me what you mean?
Thanks
Thomas

Jonathan Farrugia wrote:
> if you didn't line bore the case that is most likely your problem
> thinks me.
>
> jonathan
>
> On Sat, 5 May 2007, Thomas Pfrommer wrote:
>
>> Dear VW community,
>> I know this is a well-discussed problem and I read lots of threads and
>> goolged even more, still I would like to get a few more insights as  I
>> don't know where the problem might be.
>> I am talking about my 1987 Vanagon, 2.1l waterboxer, Digifant, automatic
>> transmission.
>> I had a bad oil tube to the third main bearing, and ignored a bit too
>> long (10km on and off  ) the oil warning light/buzzer. OK that blew one
>> the bearing. I took the engine out, completely took it apart at took the
>> parts to the machine shop so that they could machine the crank, the
>> heads, the cylinders, the cam and cleaned all junk out of the case. I
>> got a new gasket set, new oil pump, certainly new bearings, new drive
>> shafts/gears (distributor and cam). OK during spare times in the winter
>> a good friend and me built it together. Great! We brought it back into
>> the car, fired it up and it ran right away!!
>> Now first we experienced low oil pressure if the engine warmed up. It
>> was to overcome by slightly tipping on the accelerator but OK thats not
>> good. So i changed the relief valve spring which I should have done in
>> first place, changed the 0.9bar switch and also changed to 20W50 as I
>> first had 10W30 synthec. Certainly I also changed the oil filter right
>> away (Mahle, black).
>> After restarting, the temperature display would not move. After
>> rebleeding and no change, i changed the sender, and it worked. OK it did
>> work in first place when i first experienced the bad oil pressure and
>> now just bad lick I guess. Well anyway this problem is fixed. But after
>> warming it up I again get the pow oil pressure buzzer. No blinking
>> though while idleing or slightly lower rpm, do the 0.3bar sender does
>> not indicate, but the 0.9bar kicks in after warming it up and going
>> above 2600!! Hm Why 2600 and not 2000? Do I have the right oil pressure
>> at 2000 and then it drops? Hm very weired. OK I unplugged the 0.9bar
>> sender at the cable where it connects to the wiring from the harness and
>> watched when the buzzer comes on now just to see if the electronics
>> work. OK same thing again 2600 it comes on.
>> OK something in the electronics does not work exactly as it is supposed
>> to do, but anyway the low oil pressure is for real
>> , I guess. What the hack is going on? A problem with the new oil pump? a
>> missing gasket? Not that I know, we added the flat gasket between case
>> and pump, and the other flat gasket with additional holes between cover
>> (not new though .. will change when I have to open it again) and pump.
>> Now after inspection, I do not see any material between case and pump
>> ... was there a groove for this gasket? i don't know any more. But I do
>> see the flat gasket between cover and pump. Hm now after thinking a bot
>> more, is this gasket OK to have here? I know some explosion drawings
>> show it, some not. Should the gears touch the cover to not let oil
>> bypass them? With this gasket of ~1mm certainly oil can bypass the
>> gears.
>> Or, did the shop recommended the wrong set of main bearings -- they
>> said, the original sized ones will fit, and i just do not have enough
>> back pressure to maintain 2/3 bar above 2000rpms? (Please not as I do
>> not really feel to open everything until the last screw again)
>> I know that without any real oil pressure gauge nobody can help right
>> now, so i will install a mechanical gauge and see what the real pressure
>> says. however, as the 0.9bar sender is new (Hey what a pain to install
>> with the engine in the car), I am quite confident, that the problem is
>> insight (unfortunately).
>> If the main bearings are a little bit too large, would the heavy duty
>> oil pump overcome this problem? I guess it depends on how far off i am
>> with my pressure, well just below 0.9bar I guess, as a small tip on the
>> accelerator shuts the buzzer off. But it should have anyways between 2
>> and 3 bar, and not somewhere around 0.9 bar.
>> I would greatly appreciate if anyone could help me with this problem or
>> experienced the same error and found a solution. I do not see any oil
>> drop. However there is a little bit near the oil pump, but not a lot,
>> even after running it for 20/30 minutes (I did not longer terms, as I am
>> afraid to damage something .. even if the buzzer was not on)
>> Why does the switch to the 0.9bar sender comes at 2600 rpms and not at
>> 2000? The green wires are connected to the ignition coil. There are two
>> open yellow connectors near the electrical ignition system box, which
>> are not connected, and I think they were not when I took the engine off,
>> but I am not sure. Do i have to connect them? I could not find from the
>> Bentley for whet they are there.
>> I hope that was not too long.
>> Please let know what you think. I will keep you posted, what the oil
>> pressure gauge says, once I have found one and the right M11x1 adapter
>> to the 0.3bar thread.
>> Thanks
>> Thomas
>>
>>
>>