Thomas

time to start reading up on vw engines :).  the wasserboxer is in most
basic terms just a water cooled version of the air cooled vw engine.  that
is a simplification but much of the basic stuff is the same between
engines.  also i forgot in the original post but you should have
rebuilt the rods.  did you do that?  reading materials:

http://www.bostonengine.com/articles/low-oil-pressure.htm

http://www.bostonengine.com/articles/csccs.html

http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jfarrugi/mive_images/gene_berg_case.html

http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0204vwt_project_budget_beater_part_iv/

jonathan

On Sun, 6 May 2007, Thomas Pfrommer wrote:

> Hi Jonathan,
> thanks for your reply .. line bore? I apologize for my ignorance,  but
> could you please explain to me what you mean?
> Thanks
> Thomas
>
> Jonathan Farrugia wrote:
>> if you didn't line bore the case that is most likely your problem
>> thinks me.
>>
>> jonathan
>>
>> On Sat, 5 May 2007, Thomas Pfrommer wrote:
>>
>>> Dear VW community,
>>> I know this is a well-discussed problem and I read lots of threads and
>>> goolged even more, still I would like to get a few more insights as  I
>>> don't know where the problem might be.
>>> I am talking about my 1987 Vanagon, 2.1l waterboxer, Digifant, automatic
>>> transmission.
>>> I had a bad oil tube to the third main bearing, and ignored a bit too
>>> long (10km on and off  ) the oil warning light/buzzer. OK that blew one
>>> the bearing. I took the engine out, completely took it apart at took the
>>> parts to the machine shop so that they could machine the crank, the
>>> heads, the cylinders, the cam and cleaned all junk out of the case. I
>>> got a new gasket set, new oil pump, certainly new bearings, new drive
>>> shafts/gears (distributor and cam). OK during spare times in the winter
>>> a good friend and me built it together. Great! We brought it back into
>>> the car, fired it up and it ran right away!!
>>> Now first we experienced low oil pressure if the engine warmed up. It
>>> was to overcome by slightly tipping on the accelerator but OK thats not
>>> good. So i changed the relief valve spring which I should have done in
>>> first place, changed the 0.9bar switch and also changed to 20W50 as I
>>> first had 10W30 synthec. Certainly I also changed the oil filter right
>>> away (Mahle, black).
>>> After restarting, the temperature display would not move. After
>>> rebleeding and no change, i changed the sender, and it worked. OK it did
>>> work in first place when i first experienced the bad oil pressure and
>>> now just bad lick I guess. Well anyway this problem is fixed. But after
>>> warming it up I again get the pow oil pressure buzzer. No blinking
>>> though while idleing or slightly lower rpm, do the 0.3bar sender does
>>> not indicate, but the 0.9bar kicks in after warming it up and going
>>> above 2600!! Hm Why 2600 and not 2000? Do I have the right oil pressure
>>> at 2000 and then it drops? Hm very weired. OK I unplugged the 0.9bar
>>> sender at the cable where it connects to the wiring from the harness and
>>> watched when the buzzer comes on now just to see if the electronics
>>> work. OK same thing again 2600 it comes on.
>>> OK something in the electronics does not work exactly as it is supposed
>>> to do, but anyway the low oil pressure is for real
>>> , I guess. What the hack is going on? A problem with the new oil pump? a
>>> missing gasket? Not that I know, we added the flat gasket between case
>>> and pump, and the other flat gasket with additional holes between cover
>>> (not new though .. will change when I have to open it again) and pump.
>>> Now after inspection, I do not see any material between case and pump
>>> ... was there a groove for this gasket? i don't know any more. But I do
>>> see the flat gasket between cover and pump. Hm now after thinking a bot
>>> more, is this gasket OK to have here? I know some explosion drawings
>>> show it, some not. Should the gears touch the cover to not let oil
>>> bypass them? With this gasket of ~1mm certainly oil can bypass the
>>> gears.
>>> Or, did the shop recommended the wrong set of main bearings -- they
>>> said, the original sized ones will fit, and i just do not have enough
>>> back pressure to maintain 2/3 bar above 2000rpms? (Please not as I do
>>> not really feel to open everything until the last screw again)
>>> I know that without any real oil pressure gauge nobody can help right
>>> now, so i will install a mechanical gauge and see what the real pressure
>>> says. however, as the 0.9bar sender is new (Hey what a pain to install
>>> with the engine in the car), I am quite confident, that the problem is
>>> insight (unfortunately).
>>> If the main bearings are a little bit too large, would the heavy duty
>>> oil pump overcome this problem? I guess it depends on how far off i am
>>> with my pressure, well just below 0.9bar I guess, as a small tip on the
>>> accelerator shuts the buzzer off. But it should have anyways between 2
>>> and 3 bar, and not somewhere around 0.9 bar.
>>> I would greatly appreciate if anyone could help me with this problem or
>>> experienced the same error and found a solution. I do not see any oil
>>> drop. However there is a little bit near the oil pump, but not a lot,
>>> even after running it for 20/30 minutes (I did not longer terms, as I am
>>> afraid to damage something .. even if the buzzer was not on)
>>> Why does the switch to the 0.9bar sender comes at 2600 rpms and not at
>>> 2000? The green wires are connected to the ignition coil. There are two
>>> open yellow connectors near the electrical ignition system box, which
>>> are not connected, and I think they were not when I took the engine off,
>>> but I am not sure. Do i have to connect them? I could not find from the
>>> Bentley for whet they are there.
>>> I hope that was not too long.
>>> Please let know what you think. I will keep you posted, what the oil
>>> pressure gauge says, once I have found one and the right M11x1 adapter
>>> to the 0.3bar thread.
>>> Thanks
>>> Thomas
>>>
>>>
>>>
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