In the Vancouver area, the place to take your flat four VW motor is The Bug
Shop.

604-589-2236

Good luck.

On 5/6/07, Thomas Pfrommer <pfrommer@phas.ubc.ca> wrote:
>
> Hi Jonathan,
>
> Jonathan Farrugia wrote:
> > Thomas
> >
> > time to start reading up on vw engines :).  the wasserboxer is in most
> > basic terms just a water cooled version of the air cooled vw engine.
> Yes I know, and they only had a couple of months to do the conversion.
>
> > that
> > is a simplification but much of the basic stuff is the same between
> > engines.  also i forgot in the original post but you should have
> > rebuilt the rods.  did you do that?  reading materials:
> Oh yes I forgot to mention. The surface where the bearings are of the
> rods were certainly rebuilt as well.I also have new cam followers,
> adjusted therefore th valves and the wrist pins and the piston holes
> were also remachined, as they were very sticky while removing them.
>
> >
> > http://www.bostonengine.com/articles/low-oil-pressure.htm
> >
> > http://www.bostonengine.com/articles/csccs.html
> >
> > http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jfarrugi/mive_images/gene_berg_case.html
> >
> > http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0204vwt_project_budget_beater_part_iv/
> >
>
> Thanks for the links, I knew two out of the four ... I will read more to
> get an idea what to do after the pressure gauge test.
>
> Thomas
> > jonathan
> >
> > On Sun, 6 May 2007, Thomas Pfrommer wrote:
> >
> >> Hi Jonathan,
> >> thanks for your reply .. line bore? I apologize for my ignorance,  but
> >> could you please explain to me what you mean?
> >> Thanks
> >> Thomas
> >>
> >> Jonathan Farrugia wrote:
> >>> if you didn't line bore the case that is most likely your problem
> >>> thinks me.
> >>>
> >>> jonathan
> >>>
> >>> On Sat, 5 May 2007, Thomas Pfrommer wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Dear VW community,
> >>>> I know this is a well-discussed problem and I read lots of threads
> and
> >>>> goolged even more, still I would like to get a few more insights
> as  I
> >>>> don't know where the problem might be.
> >>>> I am talking about my 1987 Vanagon, 2.1l waterboxer, Digifant,
> >>>> automatic
> >>>> transmission.
> >>>> I had a bad oil tube to the third main bearing, and ignored a bit too
> >>>> long (10km on and off  ) the oil warning light/buzzer. OK that blew
> >>>> one
> >>>> the bearing. I took the engine out, completely took it apart at
> >>>> took the
> >>>> parts to the machine shop so that they could machine the crank, the
> >>>> heads, the cylinders, the cam and cleaned all junk out of the case. I
> >>>> got a new gasket set, new oil pump, certainly new bearings, new drive
> >>>> shafts/gears (distributor and cam). OK during spare times in the
> >>>> winter
> >>>> a good friend and me built it together. Great! We brought it back
> into
> >>>> the car, fired it up and it ran right away!!
> >>>> Now first we experienced low oil pressure if the engine warmed up. It
> >>>> was to overcome by slightly tipping on the accelerator but OK thats
> >>>> not
> >>>> good. So i changed the relief valve spring which I should have done
> in
> >>>> first place, changed the 0.9bar switch and also changed to 20W50 as I
> >>>> first had 10W30 synthec. Certainly I also changed the oil filter
> right
> >>>> away (Mahle, black).
> >>>> After restarting, the temperature display would not move. After
> >>>> rebleeding and no change, i changed the sender, and it worked. OK
> >>>> it did
> >>>> work in first place when i first experienced the bad oil pressure and
> >>>> now just bad lick I guess. Well anyway this problem is fixed. But
> >>>> after
> >>>> warming it up I again get the pow oil pressure buzzer. No blinking
> >>>> though while idleing or slightly lower rpm, do the 0.3bar sender does
> >>>> not indicate, but the 0.9bar kicks in after warming it up and going
> >>>> above 2600!! Hm Why 2600 and not 2000? Do I have the right oil
> >>>> pressure
> >>>> at 2000 and then it drops? Hm very weired. OK I unplugged the 0.9bar
> >>>> sender at the cable where it connects to the wiring from the
> >>>> harness and
> >>>> watched when the buzzer comes on now just to see if the electronics
> >>>> work. OK same thing again 2600 it comes on.
> >>>> OK something in the electronics does not work exactly as it is
> >>>> supposed
> >>>> to do, but anyway the low oil pressure is for real
> >>>> , I guess. What the hack is going on? A problem with the new oil
> >>>> pump? a
> >>>> missing gasket? Not that I know, we added the flat gasket between
> case
> >>>> and pump, and the other flat gasket with additional holes between
> >>>> cover
> >>>> (not new though .. will change when I have to open it again) and
> pump.
> >>>> Now after inspection, I do not see any material between case and pump
> >>>> ... was there a groove for this gasket? i don't know any more. But
> >>>> I do
> >>>> see the flat gasket between cover and pump. Hm now after thinking a
> >>>> bot
> >>>> more, is this gasket OK to have here? I know some explosion drawings
> >>>> show it, some not. Should the gears touch the cover to not let oil
> >>>> bypass them? With this gasket of ~1mm certainly oil can bypass the
> >>>> gears.
> >>>> Or, did the shop recommended the wrong set of main bearings -- they
> >>>> said, the original sized ones will fit, and i just do not have enough
> >>>> back pressure to maintain 2/3 bar above 2000rpms? (Please not as I do
> >>>> not really feel to open everything until the last screw again)
> >>>> I know that without any real oil pressure gauge nobody can help right
> >>>> now, so i will install a mechanical gauge and see what the real
> >>>> pressure
> >>>> says. however, as the 0.9bar sender is new (Hey what a pain to
> install
> >>>> with the engine in the car), I am quite confident, that the problem
> is
> >>>> insight (unfortunately).
> >>>> If the main bearings are a little bit too large, would the heavy duty
> >>>> oil pump overcome this problem? I guess it depends on how far off i
> am
> >>>> with my pressure, well just below 0.9bar I guess, as a small tip on
> >>>> the
> >>>> accelerator shuts the buzzer off. But it should have anyways between
> 2
> >>>> and 3 bar, and not somewhere around 0.9 bar.
> >>>> I would greatly appreciate if anyone could help me with this
> >>>> problem or
> >>>> experienced the same error and found a solution. I do not see any oil
> >>>> drop. However there is a little bit near the oil pump, but not a lot,
> >>>> even after running it for 20/30 minutes (I did not longer terms, as
> >>>> I am
> >>>> afraid to damage something .. even if the buzzer was not on)
> >>>> Why does the switch to the 0.9bar sender comes at 2600 rpms and not
> at
> >>>> 2000? The green wires are connected to the ignition coil. There are
> >>>> two
> >>>> open yellow connectors near the electrical ignition system box, which
> >>>> are not connected, and I think they were not when I took the engine
> >>>> off,
> >>>> but I am not sure. Do i have to connect them? I could not find from
> >>>> the
> >>>> Bentley for whet they are there.
> >>>> I hope that was not too long.
> >>>> Please let know what you think. I will keep you posted, what the oil
> >>>> pressure gauge says, once I have found one and the right M11x1
> adapter
> >>>> to the 0.3bar thread.
> >>>> Thanks
> >>>> Thomas
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>

--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
www.crescentbeachguitar.com