When using this material in a cabinet shop I found it best to cut it
somewhat long and push it back into itself when installing.

Otherwise the stretch factor when you smoosh it ( sorry to use the tech
jargon)  into the saw kerf will result in unsightly gaps when it contracts
to its original relaxed state.

On 5/22/07, Bill Glenn <idahobill@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 22 May 2007 00:53:57 -0600, justin - <jtrashy@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
> >any ideas on keeping the new t molding snug?
> >
> >how do i keep them from shrinking?
> >
> >thanks
> >justin
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Change is good. See what's different about Windows Live Hotmail.
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> The vinyl used for the extruded T-molding possesses a higher coefficient
> of
> expansion than the plywood to which it was attached.  The two materials
> move at differing rates in response to temperature changes.  Molding cut
> to
> fit at 70 degrees will increase considerably in length when the interior
> of
> the van is much hotter, and the molding will shorten considerably when the
> interior of the van is colder; the plywood, having a lower coefficient of
> expansion, is more stable over the same temperature range.  The vinyl
> molding, while quick and easy, and thus efficient from a manufacturing
> standpoint, is essentially not suitable for an environment subject to such
> a wide temperature range, without some provision for accommodating
> expansion.
>
> Further, due to the aging of the vinyl and the consequent loss of
> resiliency, the molding can take a set, locking in the wrinkles that may
> have formed, and over time, it seems that the molding always comes up
> short
> as well. Look around your Westy, and see if that's not true. Probably the
> only time the molding ever looked good was when it was new, and viewed
> when
> at the same temperature as when it was cut to size at the factory.
>
> The replacement molding will suffer from the same limitations, and no
> amount of glue will overcome the basic physics in play, at least not long-
> term. Also, on the replacement molding that I have used, I have found that
> the leg of the T, the part that inserts into the kerf, is slightly
> narrower
> in section than the original molding, and does not grip the kerf as well,
> thus the molding sometimes works it way loose.  I have had some success
> with folding a piece of duct tape or electrical tape over this leg as a
> shim to make it fit tighter, but it's not really a solution.  I re-adjust
> some of the more-visible pieces from time to time, and otherwise just live
> with it.
>
> How's that for a long answer to your question, without providing a
> solution?
> Anyone else?
>

--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
www.crescentbeachguitar.com