---- Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote: 
> If the cooling system can’t hold pressure, operating the engine is a risk.
> Just being filled with coolant is not quit enough.

Well, it didn't seem to be spraying out of the leaky spot, even under load
and RPM - mostly just a massive drip.  I wasn't driving the Westy, but at
first, the gauge indicated about mid-range and the low-coolant LED did
not light.  The gauge headed for "hot" and the LED started blinking at
about the same time, at which time the engine was shut down.  But I agree
that this is not a great way to run any water-cooled engine.

> If it has to be moved, have it towed.

We did get it back to his house and into a parking spot where we can work
on it some more.  If it needs to go further, he's got a Jeep Cherokee with enough power to flat-tow the Westy+driver using a strap or chain.

> 55ft/lbs. torque will ensure multiple broken studs.

What should be used - the stock Bentley torque of (I think) 37 lb-ft, or some
other value?

Given your comments, here is a revised procedure:

Revised bill of materials:
---
Rubber head gasket (between head and water jacket) - original VW
"The Right Stuff" sealant for rubber head gasket

Green o-ring around outside of cylinder near top - original VW
Loctite 518 sealant for green o-ring

Flat metal ring for top of cylinder - original VW

New cap nuts
Yellow sealant from engine gasket set or Loctite sealant for studs under
  cap nuts

Valve cover gasket
---

Revised procedure:
---
- Remove head
- Leave cylinder sleeves in place
- Clean and inspect

Head inspection points:

- No show stoppers like big cracks, holes, pieces missing, valves
   totally burnt, etc.
- Round surface on heads where cylinders sit: must be perfect
- If above is OK, flat surface around outside of head where gasket/
  water jacket sits: if flat, OK; if pitted, don't worry about filling the pits,
  but remove any corrosion
 
If head we have is no good: Ponder options

If reinstalling current head:

- Remove all corrosion - have head bead blasted
- Clean head to make sure all blast media is gone
- Clean sealing surfaces on head
- Clean edge of water jacket
- Remove old green O-rings from cylinders; clean grooves
- Install new green O-rings on cylinders; seal with Loctite 518
- Put "Right Stuff" on water jacket
- Install rubber head gasket
- Put more "Right Stuff" on rubber head gasket
- Seal pushrod seals with Loctite 518
- Put new flat metal rings in cylinder recesses in head
- Install head
- Put a dab of yellow gasket-set sealant or Loctite sealant on head studs
- Torque nuts in order to 7 then 37 lb-ft with beam type torque wrench
- Otherwise, "Assembly is the reverse of removal." :)
---

Are there any other changes that should be made to this procedure?

Thanks!

Matt Roberds