Mr. Pfrommer:  I was shocked as well after reading the Volkscafe
instructions/guidelines for their installation.  What a stupid place
to mount a rubber hose and an oil pressure sender where a road rock
could take it all out in one shot.

I had a custom made #4 Stainless steel Teflon hose(Aeroquip no less)
with swedged fittings on each end and about 15" long for under
$15.  I bought the gauge and dual sender unit used on ebay for dirt
cheap and bought a P clamp at the local hardware store.  Yes, you
need to ground the sending unit.  I mounted mine on top of the
crankcase near the 3/4 side using an existing threaded hole in the
case that mounted something I no longer needed and that was over 5
years ago and no problems with heat. Even with the brass 1/8"npt
fittings I bought the total cost was under $40.  The hell with that
buzzer system!!  Mine's hooked up, but it's not going to fail and
cook my motor now.  Good luck with your ijnstall.  I think you are on
the right track.

DM&FS

At 02:20 PM 6/19/2007, Thomas Pfrommer wrote:

>Hi everybody,
>I am currently installing a permanent electrical oil pressure sender in
>my 2.1l  87 Vanagon and I am wandering about the heat resistance of the
>sender unit. I read some old posts here on the mailing list as well as
>this article
>
>http://www.van-cafe.com/vanagonparts.jsp?pa=ip&ip=1401786957
>
>and this
>
>http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/oil-pressure-probs/index.html
>
>
>I do not like the idea to have the sender under the left tin shield and
>have it exposed to all the dirt and stuff. So i decided to use a tubing
>(steel) and bent it in a manner so that I can install the sender on top
>of the engine where the AC is supposed to sit if i had one. (Let me know
>if you want a picture on how much and where to bend these tubings .... I
>used 20" of tubing).
>As whole system is on the engine, I do not expect to have lots of stress
>on the M10x1 threaded hole between the pushrod tubes, so hopefully I do
>not damage it with the vibrations. Its the same case, just connected
>above and below. Stainless steel braided Teflon tubing was really
>expensive unfortunately. Please correct me if I am wrong.
>
>Hence there is even a nice open threaded hole that I can use to clamp
>down the sender. I will use a P (or Q)-shaped metal sheet to hold it. My
>question now is, whether the heat, transfered by this metal sheet from
>the engine will do any harm to the sender? Also the radiation heat will
>be a lot, as the sender is not much above the case (~1cm). I could use
>some silicon based tubing and ground the sender actively via a small
>wire. Reading the above mentioned articles, I will have to use Teflon
>band to seal the fittings (brass). So I cannot use the tubing itself to
>ground. Before I bend the metal sheet I just would like to know if the
>heat insulation plus additional grounding effort is necessary, or should
>I just go with the metal sheet directly to the sender.
>
>Thanks a lot for your help.
>Hey the camping season has now arrived in Vancouver BC as well. I am
>looking forward to finally use m nice van.
>Cheers
>Thomas