

| Subject: | Re: It's alive, but it gives bad head! (Fixing head leak on '87 2.1L) |
| From: | Matt Roberds |
| Date: | Thu, 21 Jun 2007 03:38:27 -0500 |
Hello all! A few days ago, I posted the story of helping a friend get his newly- acquired '87 Westy (2.1L, 150K miles) back on the road. In brief, it ran, but required about a gallon (4 L) of coolant at the end of a 10- minute drive, mostly due to a big leak from the right head. It also seemed to lack power during part of the drive. Before that drive, we had gotten to "crank, tries to fire" but couldn't get it to fire. We pulled the plugs that were in there and they had apparently been in there for a while; the gap was rather amazing. All images are about 400kb, 1600x1200: http://www.birdbird.org/cars/westy/dscn0005.jpg http://www.birdbird.org/cars/westy/dscn0007.jpg Replacing those plugs (plus the wires and cap) got it to start. Tonight we wrenched on it some more and found some interesting stuff. One we pulled the tin under the right side, we could see that the head gasket was integrity-challenged. Look just to the left of the left pushrod tube (#2 exhaust) in this picture... yes, you're seeing daylight between part of the gasket and the head/water-jacket joint. http://www.birdbird.org/cars/westy/dscn0004.jpg Popping off the valve cover, we got to play a game from our childhood. "One of these things is not like the others One of these things just doesn't belong One of these things is not like the others Can you tell me which one before I finish this song?" http://www.birdbird.org/cars/westy/dscn0001.jpg This is probably why the van just barely made it up the (rather steep) hill to his house a few days ago. Taking the rocker arm off, the ends of the valves didn't look too bad but some of the adjusting screws were pretty beat up on the tip and will get replaced. We went on to pull the head and the two frontmost and two rearmost cap nuts (exhaust side of #1 and #2) had maybe 10 or 15 lb-ft of torque on them. The four middle ones (intake side of #1 and #2) were better. The nuts came freely off once loosened; none of the studs wanted to come out with the nuts. We got as far as pulling the head away from the case, but #1 cylinder wanted to stay with the head rather than staying with the case like #2 did. We were a little short of time and the right tools, and we didn't want to lose the piston out of the bottom of #1 cylinder, so we called it a night. We did cut the head gasket and pull it off the engine so we could admire it: http://www.birdbird.org/cars/westy/dscn0008.jpg http://www.birdbird.org/cars/westy/dscn0009.jpg http://www.birdbird.org/cars/westy/dscn0010.jpg The sealing surface on the water jacket looked pretty good all the way around. We couldn't see the sealing surface around the edge of the head very well, but running a finger around it revealed no major chunks missing, no major corrosion pits, etc. We'll know more when we get the head completely off of the engine. I think it's safe to say that we found our coolant leak and power loss. :) Are there any hot tips to getting the cylinders unstuck from the head? We tried tapping around, using a chunk of dowel rod as a drift and a small hammer, putting the dowel both close to the head and further away from the head on the cylinder. We also shot some penetrating oil in the cylinder/head joint, but that hasn't done much yet. At the moment, we are trying to avoid having the piston come out the bottom of the cylinder and having to play ring-compressor games to get things reassembled. Thanks! Matt Roberds
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