Might be worth checking the Hall sensor in the distributor.  I had one
on a SAAB 900 that would crap out when hot and then work again after
cooling for half an hour.
  If you look up which wire carries the signal you may be able to check
it with an AC voltmeter.  Ground the HV coil wire, or disconnect the
injectors to prevent starting and check the signal while cranking the
starter.  Compare the readings when cold and when it is in failure mode.
 Worked for me.

Larry A.

- Jeff & Kim Prudhoe wrote:

>Hello all.
>
>I posted a couple of weeks ago regarding an idle problem with a neighbors
>recently purchased '87.  The condition has gotten worse.  It previously would
>exhibit stalling/stumbling at idle and in traffic.  After getting the van on the
>interstate for a few miles the subsequent stop and go driving would be w/out
>incident.
>
>The van now will start, idle for approximately 3 minutes and stall out.  The
>idle will hunt just before it quits.  Interestingly, the van now cannot be
>restarted for 5-10 minutes following this scenario.  It can't even be driven in
>light traffic without stalling at lights.  Even when on the road the van will
>not start for 5-10 minutes after it stalls.  It has not made it back to the
>interstate because of the worsening condition.
>
>The van now has a new temp II sensor and idle control valve.  I have also
>tested the van with a good idle stabilizer unit and have disconnected the oxs
>without change.
>
>Any thoughts on a next move?
>
>Jeff
>
>
>
>**************************************
> See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
>