

| Subject: | clutch pedal adjustment procedure |
| From: | Matt Barclay |
| Date: | Wed, 4 Jul 2007 20:30:36 -0700 |
Hello, I search around the archives and couldn't find any step by step procedures for clutch pedal adjustment, so here's how I did it for future archive searchers. First of all, the pedal could be off because there is air in the hydraulic lines, or if the master or slave cylinders are failing. The master cylinder is located between the clutch pedal and brake pedal, and the slave cylinder is on the transmission. Take a good look at each cylinder and look for fluid leaking out. Next, consider bleeding the system at the slave cylinder. It has a bleeder nipple on it just like the brakes do. You have to use vacuum bleeding from the slave cylinder, don't pump the pedal or use a power bleeder on the fluid reservoir. I've read you can also clear the lines of air by raising the back end and leaving the bleeder open over night. Make sure your bleeder line is long enough so you can place the bleeder bottle higher than the fluid reservoir, otherwise gravity will drain the system. OK here we go. 1. Use a 13mm wrench (ratcheting wrench works great here) to remove the master cylinder mounting bolts 2. Move the master cylinder around until the push rod comes out of the top of the cylinder. 3. (optional, but convenient) Use vice grips to remove the return spring that holds the clutch pedal. Let the pedal lay on the floor 4. Remove the rubber stop that the clutch pedal rests against when in the "clutch engaged" (full up) position. This will allow you to tension the clutch pedal against the master cylinder when reinstalling the master cylinder. 5. Use a 15mm wrench (ratcheting, if you got it) to loosen the adjustment nut on the push rod. 6. Rotate the push rod to adjust its length. The goal (or my goal) was to make it so I could just barely get the master cylinder mounted again. With the rubber stopper out, the pedal (and push rod) is higher than usual. When the rubber stopper is reinstalled the pedal will sit with a slight pressure on the master cylinder so that as soon as you step on the pedal you'll be in the governing range of the cylinder i.e. the clutch will disengage without putting the pedal to the floor. 7. Tighten the adjustment nut against the clevis so the push rod doesn't move around on its own. 8. Reinstall the master cylinder mounting bolts. Test the pedal, see how it feels, have someone watch the slave cylinder to see how far it travels. 9. Reinstall the rubber stopper. Cheers, Matt
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