I use a little "prop rod" made from a broken hack saw blade with 2 little
"V"s cut in each end to "secure it". I gently "wedge" the prop between the
throttle cable screw connection (moving part that increases the RPMS) and something
stationary in the engine compartment. I've also used a broken stick instead of
the hacksaw blade.

You got the idea? It kind of takes a little finesse to get it the right
length. My little prop must be about  3 inches. I look through the passenger
compartment from the rear at the engine to eyeball the tach in the dash. Figure out
how long the prop has to be to get ti to 2500 RPM or whatever the recommended
RPMS are, then do the run-around the bus dance checking, adding, bleeding,
tightening.

Obviously fashion the prop rod to give you the proper RPMS before you get
into the bleeding with open valves and what have you.

This is where I would love that bleeder valve I saw someone mention on the
list a while back that one of the engine conversion place sells for the Subaru
conversion I think.  A little spigot to replace the radiator bolt that is
normally used for bleeding.

My method is primitive, with the prop rod and all, but it does work.

Best,
Jeff
83.5 Westy
LA LA, CA

In a message dated 7/14/2007 5:25:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wes@CS.UCHICAGO.EDU writes:

Is there a way to do it without a helper?

************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour