Dropping the egine for access alone is not needed. I went to Home Depot, and went to the tools section, and spent about $20 on a right-angle drive for my hand-held drill. It was just about  the best tool I have bought, considering I had to redrill and Heli-Coil two exhaust studs on my Butternut. It took about 20 minutes per hole. So nice!

David Kao <dtkao0205@YAHOO.COM> wrote:    <SNIP>
  To remove a broken exhaust header stud (stuck in the exhaust port of the cylinder head)
You need a handheld drill with 1 or 2 drill bits. It's better to use 2. The first should
be a cobalt drill bit of 1/8" size. Use this drill bit to drill 1/4" deep into the broken
stud in the center of it. Then use a 3/8" cobalt drill bit to drill into the same hole
created by the 1/8" bit about 1/2" deep. Be careful not to drill into the Aluminum
cylinder head. Cobalt drill bit is very powerful in drilling into steel. You should
have no difficulty drilling through the broken stud. Do not use other kind of drill
bits. You will mess up the cylinder head. Cobalt drill bits cost less than $5 each for
the 1/8" and 3/8" sizes and they are available from Home Depot, Wal-Mart, etc.

Once the hole is drilled you can use a stud removing bit, similar to a drill bit
but has a tapered shank made of steel and cheap still. Use a small hammer to tap on
the bit to drive it into the hole you drilled on the stud. Use a wrench to turn the
bit counterclockwise. The broken stud will come out. The broken stud will not refuse
to come out because it is not under any stress when the header is already removed.
It will be a complete relief when you see the broken stud come out and the cylinder
head unharmed whatsoever.

The reason the engine needs to be dropped is so that there is room for the drill to
do the work. Bus Depot should have replacement studs. It's a good online store based
on my purchasing experience from it.

<SNIP>