It did indeed. Those batteries were heaaavy! And big! It may have been a
special installation the PO had installed. But once charged, they would
deliver DC for a very long time. They were wired into an isolator
circuit so that anytime the engine or the generator was started, the
isolator would allow the batteries to receive a charge. I never ran the
generator much because of the noise and vibration, so when I was parked
I ran mostly on the batteries to keep the noise and disturbance to a
minimum. Others seemed to appreciate that. Nothing much worse than to be
in some pristine campgound by a lake in the middle of beautiful mountain
scenery and have some idiot fire up a generator and blast the
tranquilty. Gives one the "urge to kill", figuratively speaking.

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver

neil N wrote:
> In reading the FAQ from link I just posted, I have learned that there
> are hybrid deep cycle, and true deep cycle. i.e. "Rolls" as Dennis
> pointed out.
>
> Did your Dodge rig have the true deep cycle batteries? (solid lead plates)
>
> Neil.
>
>
>
> On 7/29/07, John Rodgers <inua@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Some years ago I owned a big Champion motorhome - 33 feet long, not to
>> fancy, built on a Dodge truck chassis, with a big Dodge truck engine in
>> it. It had an alternator on the engine (don't remember what size) that
>> was big enough to charge all batteries and operate the vehicle
>> appliances at the same time. The refrigerator/freezer combo was a combo
>> of propane and AC electricity - but not DC electricity. When parked -
>> you were expected to run the generator for refer power or to fire up the
>> propane burner on the refrigerator. There was also a 30,000 BTU Suburban
>> Propane heater as well, that would run on the DC power. The motor home
>> had four heavy duty wet type 12 volt deep cycle marine batteries. Those
>> things would supply all the power I needed most times for two or three
>> days without firing off the engine or the generator.
>>
>> The point - for extended reserve power, get the kind I had or modern
>> golf cart batteries as Dennis has suggested. They are the way to go.
>>
>> John Rodgers
>> 88 GL Driver
>>
>> Dennis Haynes wrote:
>>
>>> Of the battery choices out there, a conventional flooded cell will be the
>>> most tolerant of use and abuse and provide the longest life. Most of the
>>> 12 volt deep cycle batteries or beefed up starting batteries and still
>>> have short lives of one or 2 seasons. The golf cart batteries are a lot
>>> more tolerant of heavy use.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Of the common, reasonable price brands, Trojans are probably the best.
>>> Best plates and a lot of active material in the plates. Yes there are
>>> better such as Rolls Surrette but bring money.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> AGM and Gel batteries is still emerging technologies and the advertising
>>> is a lot of hype. While sold as sealed, they are truly sealed. All of them
>>> have some type of pressure relief vent.  Temperature changes can cause the
>>> vents to weep and once the electrolyte is lost it can not be replaced.
>>> Most cell failures are the result of dry out. Unless you truly have an
>>> application requiring a sealed battery, they are not worth the money.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Any battery can boil, off gas from a failure, whatever. For an RV
>>> application, the batteries should be installed in some type of sealed and
>>> vented compartment, especially if you plan to sleep while the batteries
>>> are being charged. This is not always practical so consider a flammable
>>> gas detector. They will pick up hydrogen. Plastic battery boxes are
>>> available for most any sized battery. They can be placed under the seat
>>> and you can install drain and vent of desired. At least if a battery boils
>>> out, the acid will be contained.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> For wiring and charging, the circuit needs to sized for both charging the
>>> battery and any load connected to it. This includes inverters. The GC-2
>>> will pull about 40 amps off the alternator during the bulk charge. Add you
>>> other loads. Best results will also be a direct line from the alternator.
>>> #6 gauge. Also, you want a truly reliable relay. Most important that it
>>> disconects when expected. You want double break contacts like in those
>>> solenoid type cans.  Not a small lighting relay.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dennis
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
>
> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
>
>
>