ALL propane tanks are rusty looking.  unless your one of those weenies who
live in california or in the southwest and never driven your van in the salt.
the tanks are HEAVY gauge metal... ive never seen one rusted thru..even on
rusty, salt driven vanagons from new england.   if the tank holds propane, then
your fine.   they all have the ID plate rusting off.    the reason the propane
tank dude wouldnt fill it is because of their lawyers, and because he wants
you to spend $$$$ and have you buy a new one thru him.
wire brush the tank, paint it with rustoleum, make it all purty,  and go to
another propane place and they will fill it.

end of story.

those tanks will never rust thru.

chris

you wrote:

> Hey  everyone,
>
> I've searched the archives, but I need a bit more specific  advice on what
> to
> do about the LP tank on my 87 westy.  Let me preface  this by saying that I
> have relatively little experience with propane tanks  - nothing more than
> exchanging tanks for my barbeque.  I purchased the  vehicle at the beginning
> of this year.  The LP tank definitely looks  questionable to the naked eye,
> but from reading list entries, that doesn't  seem too out of the ordinary.
> It still has propane in it, and the stove  lights easily.  It looks as
> though
> someone tried to spray paint it at  some point and sprayed over a pressure
> gauge and any stickers/id  plates/certification markings that may have been
> on the tanks.
>
> So, I  decided I would take it in to the local AmeriGas place.  The
> attendant
> took one look at the tank and told me it was "junk".   Apparently the type
> of
> rust he saw, which he described as "pitting", led  him to believe it was
> done.  The entire exchange lasted about 20  seconds and he was less than
> enthusiastic about having a look at it for me,  so I'm not certain how much
> stock I should put in his diagnosis, and am  hoping to get a second opinion.
> So, here are some questions:
>
> 1) How  can I tell if the rust on this tank is cosmetic surface rust or
> something  to be concerned about?
>
> 2) Where are the certification markings and ID  plates of importance
> generally located.  I see a couple stickers  (peeling off and painted over)
> and what looks like a plate on the top of  the tank in the middle.
>
> 3) What do I need to do to prepare the tank for  removal?  I'm assuming all
> of the LP needs to be bled out, but does  anyone have instructions for doing
> this safely and for removing the tank  from start to finish?
>
> 4) Once it is removed, what is the best way to  recondition it?  I've heard
> sandblasting (I don't have one, will try  manual sanding) and
> repainting/sealing with rustoleum.  Any other  suggestions?
>
> 5) Once it has been cosmetically reconditioned, I am still  planning on
> having it tested by an LP shop.  I just don't want it  dismissed right away
> due to the rusty exterior.  What should I expect  an LP professional to do
> to
> test a tank that "looks" okay?  Pressure  tests?
>
> 6) Any other general suggestions/information?
>
> I am aware  of the new tank available from GW, but I want to be sure that
> this one is  no good before I spend over $300 to buy one that I probably
> will
> be unable  to install myself.
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
>
>
>
>
>

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