zolt..your scaring the isht out of the poor guy..     the ID plate is
superficial.. if they look scaly or have alot of rust underneath, i just grind them
off and chuck them.   Manchester was retarted for affixing the ID plates this
way anyway..  ive seen scaly rust under the ID plate but NEVER a hole thru or
even a weak spot..

chris

In a message dated 8/1/07 1:48:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET writes:

>
> If that welded on ID plate is bulging too too too much, it is probably done.
> Most bad rusting is happening there.  If its kind of level still, take the
> whole thing out and clean it up and POR 15, and Rustoleum paint it, put new
> fill valve, new press. release valve, new regulator and that's it.  You
> don't need to let the gas out of it for just painting, but for changing the
> valves, yes.  Take off the regulator and open the valve, while the tank is
> in the correct position as it would be in the car.
> Once it is empty, you can weld and grind and all.  The wall thickness of the
> tank is not changing substantially with the usual rust.  But under the plate
> can be half the thickness.  One can weld a new piece in there, but it better
> be a good welder who knows what he is doing.
> To take out the whole thing as follows;
> Take off the stone guard, one bolt&nut each side, 13mm.
> Take off the pipes,
> 15mm long sockets for the nuts that hold it up.  Don't take out the two
> inner ones, only make them very loose.  Take out the two outside ones only.
> Hold the tank before you take out the second one, than lower it nicely.
> There is no danger.  Its a normal gas tank.
> Now, remember, you are working with gas.  Some of the fittings are marked
> with a notch, that means left hand threaded and they tighten and loosen the
> opposite way.  Just like on an oxy-acetilene set you find them.  Fittings
> are tapered and self sealing, but you put on teflon tape.
> The whole thing is not a big deal, really.  It is only strange the first
> time.
> Zoltan
>
>
>

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