Hey! It's not our demonstrable weenieness that keeps us off salted
roads, it's a combination of lack thereof, and a smattering of smarts.

--

Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westfalia: Mellow Yellow ("The Electrical Banana")
74 Utility Trailer. Ladybug Trailer, Inc., San Juan Capistrano, CA.
KG6RCR

On 8/1/2007 10:47 AM JordanVw@AOL.COM wrote:

> ALL propane tanks are rusty looking.  unless your one of those weenies who
> live in california or in the southwest and never driven your van in the salt.
> the tanks are HEAVY gauge metal... ive never seen one rusted thru..even on
> rusty, salt driven vanagons from new england.   if the tank holds propane, then
> your fine.   they all have the ID plate rusting off.    the reason the propane
> tank dude wouldnt fill it is because of their lawyers, and because he wants
> you to spend $$$$ and have you buy a new one thru him.
> wire brush the tank, paint it with rustoleum, make it all purty,  and go to
> another propane place and they will fill it.
>
> end of story.
>
> those tanks will never rust thru.
>
> chris
>
>
> you wrote:
>
>> Hey  everyone,
>>
>> I've searched the archives, but I need a bit more specific  advice on what
>> to
>> do about the LP tank on my 87 westy.  Let me preface  this by saying that I
>> have relatively little experience with propane tanks  - nothing more than
>> exchanging tanks for my barbeque.  I purchased the  vehicle at the beginning
>> of this year.  The LP tank definitely looks  questionable to the naked eye,
>> but from reading list entries, that doesn't  seem too out of the ordinary.
>> It still has propane in it, and the stove  lights easily.  It looks as
>> though
>> someone tried to spray paint it at  some point and sprayed over a pressure
>> gauge and any stickers/id  plates/certification markings that may have been
>> on the tanks.
>>
>> So, I  decided I would take it in to the local AmeriGas place.  The
>> attendant
>> took one look at the tank and told me it was "junk".   Apparently the type
>> of
>> rust he saw, which he described as "pitting", led  him to believe it was
>> done.  The entire exchange lasted about 20  seconds and he was less than
>> enthusiastic about having a look at it for me,  so I'm not certain how much
>> stock I should put in his diagnosis, and am  hoping to get a second opinion.
>> So, here are some questions:
>>
>> 1) How  can I tell if the rust on this tank is cosmetic surface rust or
>> something  to be concerned about?
>>
>> 2) Where are the certification markings and ID  plates of importance
>> generally located.  I see a couple stickers  (peeling off and painted over)
>> and what looks like a plate on the top of  the tank in the middle.
>>
>> 3) What do I need to do to prepare the tank for  removal?  I'm assuming all
>> of the LP needs to be bled out, but does  anyone have instructions for doing
>> this safely and for removing the tank  from start to finish?
>>
>> 4) Once it is removed, what is the best way to  recondition it?  I've heard
>> sandblasting (I don't have one, will try  manual sanding) and
>> repainting/sealing with rustoleum.  Any other  suggestions?
>>
>> 5) Once it has been cosmetically reconditioned, I am still  planning on
>> having it tested by an LP shop.  I just don't want it  dismissed right away
>> due to the rusty exterior.  What should I expect  an LP professional to do
>> to
>> test a tank that "looks" okay?  Pressure  tests?
>>
>> 6) Any other general suggestions/information?
>>
>> I am aware  of the new tank available from GW, but I want to be sure that
>> this one is  no good before I spend over $300 to buy one that I probably
>> will
>> be unable  to install myself.
>>
>> Thanks for your help!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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