

| Subject: | Re: Comments wanted on this portable fridge |
| From: | neil N |
| Date: | Tue, 7 Aug 2007 10:59:39 -0700 |
Hi Warren There's been lots of talk recently about deep cycle batteries and related info. One poster suggested that one could install a battey in engine bay. Not sure which model years. Would require long runs of big cables I believe. Since there's people swapping out their Dometics, why not snap one up and put in a second fridge?? Put it behind the passenger seat! (kidding --- ;^) Yes it costs $$, which varies depending on your needs. And yes, lots to learn. Best advice I could give (as I've recently discovered), is start with "tried and true" ideas! Cheers, Neil. -- Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links! http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia. http://web.mac.com/tubaneil On 8/7/07, Warren Chapman <vwsyncroguy@yahoo.com> wrote: > Also desperately trying to solve this fridge problem....I need to carry > more fresh produce than most due to my particular diet preference....so > volume is important to me. I hate ice chests and wet food. > > I've been pretty much convinced on the Engel type solution, but haven't > pulled the trigger yet mostly due to the high cost.....then recently, on > an impulse...(motivated by a great price) I recently purchased an Isotherm > CR65 off eBay ....similar to the Norcold DC0040....slightly larger (2.3 vs > 1.7 cu.ft.) interior capacity and uses the Danfoss BD35F compressor. > > It will install right into Vanagon fridge opening (width perfect, with a > space left over at the top., sticks out slightly farther than the face of > the Westy cabinets...easily solved with a bit of frame backing between the > fridge and cabinets. > > Electrial specs are: "average" useage is .7amps/hr, max draw 2.5 amps > > http://www.emarineinc.com/products/refrigeration/icr65.html > > It cools down quickly and keeps food very cold in my "bench tests" so far > > But, I'm still trying to get a grip on all these battery types and > construction and their various charging/discharging qualites and > requirements. > > It seems that going 12V only and giving up propane comes with some serious > expense...and space compromises....for the required extra battery capacity > and (solar ??) charging apparatus.....not to mention the extra weight. > > From what I've read here... for a weekend outing....if you start on > Friday, a 100AH battery capacity is the minimum....and possibly you're > risking battery damage on the third day (more than 50% discharge). > > Depending on your choices, the fridge will cost $400-$900 and the solar > panel, controller, battery, etc....another $600-$1000. > > Yikes.!!...maybe wet food in an ice chest isn't all that bad. > > There is no 100AH battery that will fit under the driver's seat....so > there goes my precious under the rear seat storage. My goal is to keep > that darn battery either under the driver's seat or under the van > somewhere else. One idea I'm looking into is increasing the area under > the drivers seat. > > Would it be possible to cut out the bottom of the battery box under the > seat and weld in a 3" deeper box section?? Not sure yet what's directly > under the battery box, but there's almost 12" of length and 7" of useful > width there already....the limiting factor is the shallow depth. With an > extra 3" of depth....there might be a 100AH battery that will fit in > there ...????? > > Comments on this? > > Also, I keep reading that there are SOME deep cyle batteries that can be > discharged safely to 80% DOD...that's a BIG 30% increase in useful AHs per > charge....and would safely get you that third day without (expensive)solar > help . Which ones ?? and how does their size compares to the 50% DOD > types. I read a post on another forum that said the 6 volt golf cart > batteries allow this...but two 6 volts in series must be even larger than > a single 12V with same AHs. > > There's a lot to learn and understand here. > > Warren C >
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