IIRC a spray containing silicone, like WD40, is hard on rubber. Did
you use anything like that?

In the 182B service manual, there is a pic of positioning of sparker
tip etc. but unfourtunately the sparker/thermal etc. are different
sizes.

Is there a manual for the 182A online anywhere?

I wondered too if parts were aligned correctly in combustion chamber
of my 182A. What I found was that basically the thermal mounts one way
as does the sparker and burner/jet.

The positions should be correct if parts mounted in the correct places.

Neil.

--
Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home

Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
http://web.mac.com/tubaneil

On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote:
> I'm becoming resigned to opening the combustion box yet one more time
> tomorrow to confirm that the thermocouple is correctly positioned.  But how
> would I know?  Should it be directly over the burner?  And how far above it?
>
> I still don't have a solution to my very stiff fridge air pump.  In case it
> is a clue, I notice that when I go for the first stroke after not using it
> for a while (like a 1/2 hour or so), it is VERY sticky, as if the rubber is
> literally stuck to the sides of the cylinder walls.
>
> It seems like the right answer would be the correct lubricant, but I've
> tried light machine oil and silicone lubricant, and neither has worked well.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: neil N [mailto:musomuso@gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:37 PM
> To: paul@takingflight.net
> Subject: Re: Dometic woes
>
> On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote:
> > I have followed virtually all of Sisler's instructions...very clear and
> > helpful, but, so far I haven't resolved it.
> >
> > Yes, when it has stayed lit it cools very well on LP, even better than 40
> > degree differential, probably because I added a bit of insulation where
> > possible.  Plug is in.  I'm not aware of the change in flame, the reason
> for
> > that, or how to detect that.
>
> Bear in mind that I have a 182A. Very similar to 182B but my knowledge
> comes from working on that model.
>
> What model is your's?
>
>
> Look at flame in view hole inside fridge at bottom LH side. You should
> notice a difference in flame size when you turn thermostat. When
> fridge at room temp, at min. smaller flame, higher setting bigger
> flame. I believe you should hear a "click" too when going from one
> size flame to another. Of course the point at which the flame changes
> sizes depends on inside temp of fridge.
>
> >
> > >>If  pump gets that much resistance, is it possible that something is
> > blocking the flow of air from pump and building pressure? (far fetched
> > idea I know) Maybe that would also prevent pump from getting fresh air
> > from getting to chamber.
> >
> > I do not know why so much pump resistance, but that can't be right.  When
> I
> > had it out and cleaned, the pump was working, though stiff then too, even
> > with no hose attached and so no air resistance.
> >
> > >> Is intake tube *absolutely* clear?
> >
> > Do you mean the clear plastic tube between the pump and the brass valve?
>
>
> No.The big air intake tube beside exhaust tube.
>
> My thinking is that if blocked, that would explain flame starting
> (you''ve pumped air in) then going out from lack of oxygen.
>
>
> < If
> > so, when I blew on the end of the plastic intake tube, with no pump there,
> > it seemed to me there was quite a bit of resistance to just blowing.  I
> > replaced the plastic tubeing, and removed the brass valve and examined it,
> > but knew of no way to check or clean it, so replaced it with nothing done.
>
>
> IIRC, plastic tube connects to a union which is soldered (?) to metal
> tube (at least on 182 A). From there it goes into intake flue.  .....
>
> Ok I just looked at my spare Dometic 182B. There is a small metal
> connector between plastic tube and metal tube. Interesting to note
> that there is a check valve of some sort in there. When pumping, check
> valve moved back and forth. It appears to block on the backstroke.
> Something to check if you have same setup. Looks like a place where
> debris could block.
>
> I just blew through the metal portion of tube. Blew easily. There
> shouldn't be a lot of resistance, when blowing through tube.
>
>
>
> >
> > As for the metal tube beyond that brass valve, again, I know of no simple
> > way to check or clean that.  I'd need a mini-roto-rooter.  But then, how
> > could that get blocked, if you think about it?
>
>
>
>
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Paul
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: neil N [mailto:musomuso@gmail.com]
> > Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 5:40 PM
> > To: Paul Chubbuck
> > Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
> > Subject: Re: Dometic woes
> >
> > I understand your sentiments.
> >
> > :)
> >
> > When it was staying lit, (at least long enough to get things cold) did
> > it get the fridge down to app. a 40F differential? If not.....
> >
> > Did you clean the jet orifice and if so, how did you clean it?
> >
> > I used acid/water mix on mine and it cured the problem of flame not
> > creating enough heat.
> >
> > Does it stay lit long enough to see if thermostat changes flame from
> > small to large?
> >
> > Is plug in at bottom? (drain plug)
> >
> > If  pump gets that much resistance, is it possible that something is
> > blocking the flow of air from pump and building pressure? (far fetched
> > idea I know) Maybe that would also prevent pump from getting fresh air
> > from getting to chamber.
> >
> > Is intake tube *absolutely* clear?
> >
> > Check Roger Sislers pages for some pics and info. It helped me. (and so
> did
> > he!)
> >
> > Forgive my spelling. No glasses on!
> >
> > Neil.
> >
> > On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote:
> > > I sealed one side with a cork and blew in the other end.  Very leaky.
> > >
> > > I just spent the better part of the today taking it all apart, sealing
> the
> > > system with better gaskets and caulk and putting it back together.  Same
> > > cork test was MUCH less leaky, almost no leaking at all afterwards.
> > >
> > > But....I just got it back together and, guess what?  I cannot get it to
> > stay
> > > it lit more than a few seconds.  And the pump, which I cleaned and
> > > re-lubricated with silicone instead of oil, is so stiff that it's very
> > > difficult to get more than 5-6 strokes in.
> > >
> > > I even obtained a little 2 D-cell operated fish aeration pump which I
> > > plumbed in next to the air pump with a "T", but that didn't help get it
> > > started at all.
> > >
> > > VERY discouraging.  I've put in at least a solid week's work on that
> damn
> > > Dometic this season yet don't have an reliable fridge to show for it.
> > >
> > > A Norcold by next season, I swear.
> > >
> > > Paul
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of
> > > Roger Sisler
> > > Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 12:51 PM
> > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > > Subject: Re: Dometic woes
> > >
> > > Check for a leaking combustion chamber, with the Domeitic still
> installed.
> > >
> > > Leaky chamber causes hard staring and flame out when driving.
> > >
> > > Remove the chrome vent cover. Put a cork in the deepest of the two
> vents,
> > > and blow into the other. It should be an obvious seal.
> > >
> > > If not, got to find the reason, and retry. Is the drain cap off?
> Unsealed
> > > box? loose orifice in box? Cracked corrigated vent pipes ( a good
> > > possibility)?
> > >
> > > Cracked vents are caused when removing and reinastalling the Dometic.
> > > Especially the 182b.  Very brittle pipes. When bent to much, they will
> > crack
> > > at a bend. If you have cracked vent pipes, remove the side grill and
> stick
> > > your hand inside and feel for the crack. Never done it, but muffler
> cement
> > > on the crack is the fix.
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
> > http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home
> >
> > Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
> > http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
> http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home
>
> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
>
>