wd 40 does not contain silicon. silicon grease is ok , in fact
approved and recommended to use on rubber. Well that's what they tell
me in my biz :0

Alistair

On 10-Aug-07, at 9:05 PM, neil N wrote:

IIRC a spray containing silicone, like WD40, is hard on rubber. Did
you use anything like that?

In the 182B service manual, there is a pic of positioning of sparker
tip etc. but unfourtunately the sparker/thermal etc. are different
sizes.

Is there a manual for the 182A online anywhere?

I wondered too if parts were aligned correctly in combustion chamber
of my 182A. What I found was that basically the thermal mounts one way
as does the sparker and burner/jet.

The positions should be correct if parts mounted in the correct places.

Neil.

--
Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home

Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
http://web.mac.com/tubaneil

On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote:
> I'm becoming resigned to opening the combustion box yet one more time
> tomorrow to confirm that the thermocouple is correctly positioned.
> But how
> would I know?  Should it be directly over the burner?  And how far
> above it?
>
> I still don't have a solution to my very stiff fridge air pump.  In
> case it
> is a clue, I notice that when I go for the first stroke after not
> using it
> for a while (like a 1/2 hour or so), it is VERY sticky, as if the
> rubber is
> literally stuck to the sides of the cylinder walls.
>
> It seems like the right answer would be the correct lubricant, but
> I've
> tried light machine oil and silicone lubricant, and neither has
> worked well.
>
> Paul
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: neil N [mailto:musomuso@gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:37 PM
> To: paul@takingflight.net
> Subject: Re: Dometic woes
>
> On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote:
>> I have followed virtually all of Sisler's instructions...very
>> clear and
>> helpful, but, so far I haven't resolved it.
>>
>> Yes, when it has stayed lit it cools very well on LP, even better
>> than 40
>> degree differential, probably because I added a bit of insulation
>> where
>> possible.  Plug is in.  I'm not aware of the change in flame, the
>> reason
> for
>> that, or how to detect that.
>
> Bear in mind that I have a 182A. Very similar to 182B but my knowledge
> comes from working on that model.
>
> What model is your's?
>
>
> Look at flame in view hole inside fridge at bottom LH side. You should
> notice a difference in flame size when you turn thermostat. When
> fridge at room temp, at min. smaller flame, higher setting bigger
> flame. I believe you should hear a "click" too when going from one
> size flame to another. Of course the point at which the flame changes
> sizes depends on inside temp of fridge.
>
>>
>>>> If  pump gets that much resistance, is it possible that
>>>> something is
>> blocking the flow of air from pump and building pressure? (far
>> fetched
>> idea I know) Maybe that would also prevent pump from getting fresh
>> air
>> from getting to chamber.
>>
>> I do not know why so much pump resistance, but that can't be
>> right.  When
> I
>> had it out and cleaned, the pump was working, though stiff then
>> too, even
>> with no hose attached and so no air resistance.
>>
>>>> Is intake tube *absolutely* clear?
>>
>> Do you mean the clear plastic tube between the pump and the brass
>> valve?
>
>
> No.The big air intake tube beside exhaust tube.
>
> My thinking is that if blocked, that would explain flame starting
> (you''ve pumped air in) then going out from lack of oxygen.
>
>
> < If
>> so, when I blew on the end of the plastic intake tube, with no
>> pump there,
>> it seemed to me there was quite a bit of resistance to just
>> blowing.  I
>> replaced the plastic tubeing, and removed the brass valve and
>> examined it,
>> but knew of no way to check or clean it, so replaced it with
>> nothing done.
>
>
> IIRC, plastic tube connects to a union which is soldered (?) to metal
> tube (at least on 182 A). From there it goes into intake flue.  .....
>
> Ok I just looked at my spare Dometic 182B. There is a small metal
> connector between plastic tube and metal tube. Interesting to note
> that there is a check valve of some sort in there. When pumping, check
> valve moved back and forth. It appears to block on the backstroke.
> Something to check if you have same setup. Looks like a place where
> debris could block.
>
> I just blew through the metal portion of tube. Blew easily. There
> shouldn't be a lot of resistance, when blowing through tube.
>
>
>
>>
>> As for the metal tube beyond that brass valve, again, I know of no
>> simple
>> way to check or clean that.  I'd need a mini-roto-rooter.  But
>> then, how
>> could that get blocked, if you think about it?
>
>
>
>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Paul
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: neil N [mailto:musomuso@gmail.com]
>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 5:40 PM
>> To: Paul Chubbuck
>> Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
>> Subject: Re: Dometic woes
>>
>> I understand your sentiments.
>>
>> :)
>>
>> When it was staying lit, (at least long enough to get things cold)
>> did
>> it get the fridge down to app. a 40F differential? If not.....
>>
>> Did you clean the jet orifice and if so, how did you clean it?
>>
>> I used acid/water mix on mine and it cured the problem of flame not
>> creating enough heat.
>>
>> Does it stay lit long enough to see if thermostat changes flame from
>> small to large?
>>
>> Is plug in at bottom? (drain plug)
>>
>> If  pump gets that much resistance, is it possible that something is
>> blocking the flow of air from pump and building pressure? (far
>> fetched
>> idea I know) Maybe that would also prevent pump from getting fresh
>> air
>> from getting to chamber.
>>
>> Is intake tube *absolutely* clear?
>>
>> Check Roger Sislers pages for some pics and info. It helped me.
>> (and so
> did
>> he!)
>>
>> Forgive my spelling. No glasses on!
>>
>> Neil.
>>
>> On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote:
>>> I sealed one side with a cork and blew in the other end.  Very
>>> leaky.
>>>
>>> I just spent the better part of the today taking it all apart,
>>> sealing
> the
>>> system with better gaskets and caulk and putting it back
>>> together.  Same
>>> cork test was MUCH less leaky, almost no leaking at all afterwards.
>>>
>>> But....I just got it back together and, guess what?  I cannot get
>>> it to
>> stay
>>> it lit more than a few seconds.  And the pump, which I cleaned and
>>> re-lubricated with silicone instead of oil, is so stiff that it's
>>> very
>>> difficult to get more than 5-6 strokes in.
>>>
>>> I even obtained a little 2 D-cell operated fish aeration pump
>>> which I
>>> plumbed in next to the air pump with a "T", but that didn't help
>>> get it
>>> started at all.
>>>
>>> VERY discouraging.  I've put in at least a solid week's work on that
> damn
>>> Dometic this season yet don't have an reliable fridge to show for
>>> it.
>>>
>>> A Norcold by next season, I swear.
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>>> Behalf
> Of
>>> Roger Sisler
>>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 12:51 PM
>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: Re: Dometic woes
>>>
>>> Check for a leaking combustion chamber, with the Domeitic still
> installed.
>>>
>>> Leaky chamber causes hard staring and flame out when driving.
>>>
>>> Remove the chrome vent cover. Put a cork in the deepest of the two
> vents,
>>> and blow into the other. It should be an obvious seal.
>>>
>>> If not, got to find the reason, and retry. Is the drain cap off?
> Unsealed
>>> box? loose orifice in box? Cracked corrigated vent pipes ( a good
>>> possibility)?
>>>
>>> Cracked vents are caused when removing and reinastalling the
>>> Dometic.
>>> Especially the 182b.  Very brittle pipes. When bent to much, they
>>> will
>> crack
>>> at a bend. If you have cracked vent pipes, remove the side grill and
> stick
>>> your hand inside and feel for the crack. Never done it, but muffler
> cement
>>> on the crack is the fix.
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
>> http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home
>>
>> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
>> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
> http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home
>
> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
>
>