Ah ok.

I always thought WD was tough on rubber. You are correct sir! Not so.

http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html

Says it's ok.

Eh, whatta I know?

Working on an old memory, and likely old wives tales too. --- ;^)

Neil.

On 8/10/07, Alistair Bell <albell@uvic.ca> wrote:
> wd 40 does not contain silicon. silicon grease is ok , in fact
> approved and recommended to use on rubber. Well that's what they tell
> me in my biz :0
>
> Alistair
>
>
> On 10-Aug-07, at 9:05 PM, neil N wrote:
>
> IIRC a spray containing silicone, like WD40, is hard on rubber. Did
> you use anything like that?
>
> In the 182B service manual, there is a pic of positioning of sparker
> tip etc. but unfourtunately the sparker/thermal etc. are different
> sizes.
>
> Is there a manual for the 182A online anywhere?
>
> I wondered too if parts were aligned correctly in combustion chamber
> of my 182A. What I found was that basically the thermal mounts one way
> as does the sparker and burner/jet.
>
> The positions should be correct if parts mounted in the correct places.
>
> Neil.
>
> --
> Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
> http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home
>
> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
>
>
>
>
> On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote:
> > I'm becoming resigned to opening the combustion box yet one more time
> > tomorrow to confirm that the thermocouple is correctly positioned.
> > But how
> > would I know?  Should it be directly over the burner?  And how far
> > above it?
> >
> > I still don't have a solution to my very stiff fridge air pump.  In
> > case it
> > is a clue, I notice that when I go for the first stroke after not
> > using it
> > for a while (like a 1/2 hour or so), it is VERY sticky, as if the
> > rubber is
> > literally stuck to the sides of the cylinder walls.
> >
> > It seems like the right answer would be the correct lubricant, but
> > I've
> > tried light machine oil and silicone lubricant, and neither has
> > worked well.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: neil N [mailto:musomuso@gmail.com]
> > Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:37 PM
> > To: paul@takingflight.net
> > Subject: Re: Dometic woes
> >
> > On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote:
> >> I have followed virtually all of Sisler's instructions...very
> >> clear and
> >> helpful, but, so far I haven't resolved it.
> >>
> >> Yes, when it has stayed lit it cools very well on LP, even better
> >> than 40
> >> degree differential, probably because I added a bit of insulation
> >> where
> >> possible.  Plug is in.  I'm not aware of the change in flame, the
> >> reason
> > for
> >> that, or how to detect that.
> >
> > Bear in mind that I have a 182A. Very similar to 182B but my knowledge
> > comes from working on that model.
> >
> > What model is your's?
> >
> >
> > Look at flame in view hole inside fridge at bottom LH side. You should
> > notice a difference in flame size when you turn thermostat. When
> > fridge at room temp, at min. smaller flame, higher setting bigger
> > flame. I believe you should hear a "click" too when going from one
> > size flame to another. Of course the point at which the flame changes
> > sizes depends on inside temp of fridge.
> >
> >>
> >>>> If  pump gets that much resistance, is it possible that
> >>>> something is
> >> blocking the flow of air from pump and building pressure? (far
> >> fetched
> >> idea I know) Maybe that would also prevent pump from getting fresh
> >> air
> >> from getting to chamber.
> >>
> >> I do not know why so much pump resistance, but that can't be
> >> right.  When
> > I
> >> had it out and cleaned, the pump was working, though stiff then
> >> too, even
> >> with no hose attached and so no air resistance.
> >>
> >>>> Is intake tube *absolutely* clear?
> >>
> >> Do you mean the clear plastic tube between the pump and the brass
> >> valve?
> >
> >
> > No.The big air intake tube beside exhaust tube.
> >
> > My thinking is that if blocked, that would explain flame starting
> > (you''ve pumped air in) then going out from lack of oxygen.
> >
> >
> > < If
> >> so, when I blew on the end of the plastic intake tube, with no
> >> pump there,
> >> it seemed to me there was quite a bit of resistance to just
> >> blowing.  I
> >> replaced the plastic tubeing, and removed the brass valve and
> >> examined it,
> >> but knew of no way to check or clean it, so replaced it with
> >> nothing done.
> >
> >
> > IIRC, plastic tube connects to a union which is soldered (?) to metal
> > tube (at least on 182 A). From there it goes into intake flue.  .....
> >
> > Ok I just looked at my spare Dometic 182B. There is a small metal
> > connector between plastic tube and metal tube. Interesting to note
> > that there is a check valve of some sort in there. When pumping, check
> > valve moved back and forth. It appears to block on the backstroke.
> > Something to check if you have same setup. Looks like a place where
> > debris could block.
> >
> > I just blew through the metal portion of tube. Blew easily. There
> > shouldn't be a lot of resistance, when blowing through tube.
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >> As for the metal tube beyond that brass valve, again, I know of no
> >> simple
> >> way to check or clean that.  I'd need a mini-roto-rooter.  But
> >> then, how
> >> could that get blocked, if you think about it?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Paul
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: neil N [mailto:musomuso@gmail.com]
> >> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 5:40 PM
> >> To: Paul Chubbuck
> >> Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
> >> Subject: Re: Dometic woes
> >>
> >> I understand your sentiments.
> >>
> >> :)
> >>
> >> When it was staying lit, (at least long enough to get things cold)
> >> did
> >> it get the fridge down to app. a 40F differential? If not.....
> >>
> >> Did you clean the jet orifice and if so, how did you clean it?
> >>
> >> I used acid/water mix on mine and it cured the problem of flame not
> >> creating enough heat.
> >>
> >> Does it stay lit long enough to see if thermostat changes flame from
> >> small to large?
> >>
> >> Is plug in at bottom? (drain plug)
> >>
> >> If  pump gets that much resistance, is it possible that something is
> >> blocking the flow of air from pump and building pressure? (far
> >> fetched
> >> idea I know) Maybe that would also prevent pump from getting fresh
> >> air
> >> from getting to chamber.
> >>
> >> Is intake tube *absolutely* clear?
> >>
> >> Check Roger Sislers pages for some pics and info. It helped me.
> >> (and so
> > did
> >> he!)
> >>
> >> Forgive my spelling. No glasses on!
> >>
> >> Neil.
> >>
> >> On 8/10/07, Paul Chubbuck <paul@takingflight.net> wrote:
> >>> I sealed one side with a cork and blew in the other end.  Very
> >>> leaky.
> >>>
> >>> I just spent the better part of the today taking it all apart,
> >>> sealing
> > the
> >>> system with better gaskets and caulk and putting it back
> >>> together.  Same
> >>> cork test was MUCH less leaky, almost no leaking at all afterwards.
> >>>
> >>> But....I just got it back together and, guess what?  I cannot get
> >>> it to
> >> stay
> >>> it lit more than a few seconds.  And the pump, which I cleaned and
> >>> re-lubricated with silicone instead of oil, is so stiff that it's
> >>> very
> >>> difficult to get more than 5-6 strokes in.
> >>>
> >>> I even obtained a little 2 D-cell operated fish aeration pump
> >>> which I
> >>> plumbed in next to the air pump with a "T", but that didn't help
> >>> get it
> >>> started at all.
> >>>
> >>> VERY discouraging.  I've put in at least a solid week's work on that
> > damn
> >>> Dometic this season yet don't have an reliable fridge to show for
> >>> it.
> >>>
> >>> A Norcold by next season, I swear.
> >>>
> >>> Paul
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
> >>> Behalf
> > Of
> >>> Roger Sisler
> >>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 12:51 PM
> >>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >>> Subject: Re: Dometic woes
> >>>
> >>> Check for a leaking combustion chamber, with the Domeitic still
> > installed.
> >>>
> >>> Leaky chamber causes hard staring and flame out when driving.
> >>>
> >>> Remove the chrome vent cover. Put a cork in the deepest of the two
> > vents,
> >>> and blow into the other. It should be an obvious seal.
> >>>
> >>> If not, got to find the reason, and retry. Is the drain cap off?
> > Unsealed
> >>> box? loose orifice in box? Cracked corrigated vent pipes ( a good
> >>> possibility)?
> >>>
> >>> Cracked vents are caused when removing and reinastalling the
> >>> Dometic.
> >>> Especially the 182b.  Very brittle pipes. When bent to much, they
> >>> will
> >> crack
> >>> at a bend. If you have cracked vent pipes, remove the side grill and
> > stick
> >>> your hand inside and feel for the crack. Never done it, but muffler
> > cement
> >>> on the crack is the fix.
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
> >> http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home
> >>
> >> Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
> >> http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
> > http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home
> >
> > Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
> > http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
> >
> >
>
>

--
Please send me your Vanagon/Westfalia links!
http://vanagonlinks.googlepages.com/home

Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
http://web.mac.com/tubaneil