At this point, I'm about to give it over to some well-deserving mechanic
before I bugger it totally.
See http://exploits.dyndns.org/stud.jpg
There's not much to grab onto, and I'm afraid to try and drill it.
Specifically, what should be heated? My (lack of) logic tells me to heat the
aluminum ???
Thanks
Tom

On 8/10/07, dylan friedman <insyncro@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I have had amazing results with CRC Freeze It penetrating spray.
> Mucho buckos, but has not failed me on rust bucket vans.
> just follow the directions.
>
> df
>
> John <vanagonvw@GMAIL.COM> wrote: Geeez, not a good thing to read when I
> am getting ready to remove my
> exhaust system :-)
>
> Ben speaks of heating, and then dumping on the cold water. I am aware
> that he knows what he is talking about  its just that I haven't done
> very much with a torch on rusty bolts.
>
> I just got done torching the bolt on the spindle/knuckle while replacing
> the struts on my son's car, and I  merely heated the spindle, and after
> I got it all nice and hot, I had him twist the nut out, while keeping
> the heat on the spindle, near the bolt.
>
> Did I do that completely wrong? Should I have torched it to the max, and
> then tossed cold water on it? It sounds dangerous, or at least possibly
> disasterous, but most of you will know more than me, so I figured I
> better ask.
>
> When I am pulling the exhaust bolts  from the head, I should heat it up
> good, and then hit it with cold water? Like from a bucket, or a maybe a
> spray bottle? Do I want to directly heat the bolt, or focus on the head,
> where the bolt attaches?
>
> Guess I better learn some more, before I go for it, as I would have
> heated the head where the bolt attaches, and then twisted the bolt
> loose, while it was still hot, and/or being heated by the torch.
>
> Happy to hear the right way, from those who do it often.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> John
>