In my opinion, if the compression gets as low as 120 PSI the engine is due
for a rebuild. Fixing the leak still needs to be done but the bottom line
for the engine is good compression. By the time the rebuild is completed
the leak probably no longer exists due to new gasket sets used in the rebuild.

My 83.5 before rebuild got about 120 PSI all 4 cylinders too. I still have bitter
memory how crappy it ran. But I still got 17-18 MPG in town and about 19-20 on
freeway. Not really so bad until it challenged the Sunol Grade or Pacheco Pass
whenever traveling out of Bay Area toward east. Now after rebuild I am getting
150+ PSI and 24 MPG on a 91 mile trip from San Jose to Oakdale. I drove 65 - 70
MPH when the freeway is flat.

David

--- Geza Polony <gezapolony@SBCGLOBAL.NET> wrote:

> Best way I know of to find leaks is to hook your compressor hose up to the
> throttle body inlet (I used the type of rubber stopper that goes into
> carboys),  pump it up  with 5-15 PSI, leave the compressor running to
> maintain pressure, and squirt soapy water everywhere there could possibly be
> a leak. Engine off, of course. Works well on the exhaust too, only there you
> stick the stopper in the tailpipe.
>
> One surprising place I found leaks was the base of the "black column"
> breather tube, whatever it's called. Easy to fix. The butterfly valve shaft
> in the throttle body will also leak. Hard fix. JB Weld?
>
> Anyway, it's much easier to see the bubbles come out than try to guess where
> the air is going in.
>

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