Wow this is really useful stuff guys.

So I will need to install a larger breaker in the panel. At least that
way I'll have a "dedicated" circuit.

Slow and steady. I recall from learning how to bronze braze seams on
trombone bells just how important position, speed, and of course flame
setting was. It was tricky. Especially on copper bells. I wish I had
had the chance to build more of them. That was such "old school"
stuff. Bronze with Borax and water. Lay down a line of that, warm it
up, then braze. Once you got a puddle going, there was a very short
window of time before you could *easily* burn a hole through. yeesh.
BTDT. And all this with propane and an air compressor.

Maybe I'll get into something a little more skookum the 110V setup.
Like a 220V. Especially If I'm going to the trouble of running a new
circuit. But then I'll need two open spots on the panel..... hmm....
we'll see.

Thanks again!

Neil.

On 10/1/07, Gary Lee www.vwrack.com <gary2a@telus.net> wrote:
>  >What kind of wire welder did you end up getting? I guess a lot of us
>  >are looking and brands/numbers are good.
>
>  >In reading up on MIG welders, it seems that regardless of 110 or 220
>  >VAC needs, I may have to run a new circuit (20 or 30 amp) from the
>  >service panel. I was hoping to get away with a 110 on a standard 15
>  >amp breaker, but maybe not.
>
> My welding, I do a lot of it, is all for vanagons.  Here are some of
> my opinions, in the context of vanagon usage.
> 110 volt migs are okay for sticking thin stuff together.  It won't
> look good, especially if you are using flux core.  But the machines
> are inexpensive to buy and will work.  Don't even think of making
> trailer hitches or doing structural repairs with a 110 volt welder.
> Not enough heat, not enough penetration.
>
> You will need a 20 amp outlet for your 110 volt mig.  You may be able
> to get by with a standard 15 amp circuit for short bursts, but the
> breaker will probably be tripping all the time.
>
> When welding, go slowly and smoothly.  Avoid jerky erratic
> movements.  With these small migs you have to go slow to get enough
> heat into the metal.  The bead will look better if you weave a
> consistent pattern.
> Use both hands to hold the gun if needed, one hand near the tip.
> Again, smooth and consistent will give a better looking bead.  Relax,
> don't have a death grip on the gun.
>
> The $60 autodarkening helmets from harbor freight and princess auto
> work fine for the infrequent welder.  Put that on your list of things
> to buy, it will make welding a lot easier.
>
> If you are using a 110 volt welder, use the thinnest wire you can
> get.  That would be .023 for gas and around .030 for flux core.
>
> - Keep the gun cable as straight as possible, this helps with feeding.
> - Keep the spool of wire clean.
> - Don't bother trying to weld aluminum with any of these cheap (under
> $2000) welders.  It's tricky to get it  to feed at the best of times
> on a good machine.
> - Cut the wire at an angle, this helps starts with small machines.
> - If the wire is burning back, increase wire speed.
> - Your first attempts at welding sheet metal will be frustrating.
> You'll get burn throughs and unwanted build ups requiring grinding.
> - After a while you will learn to finesse the trigger to control heat
> and burn throughs and to fill gaps.
> - A properly set up mig (wire speed and voltage) results in minimal
> spatter.
> - You will get used to the sound the arc makes to know when the setup
> is correct.  Smooth sizzle vs harsh crackle etc.
>
> Properly done, mig welding can be fast, strong and look good.
>
> Gary Lee
> Miller XMT 304 power source
> Miller 22a wire feeder
> Miller dynasty inverter tig
> 1986 vanagon
>
> www.vwrack.com
>

--
Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia -
"Jaco"  (Bustorius)

http://web.mac.com/tubaneil

Please send fav Vanagon/Westfalia links to me at:
musomuso1963@hotmail.com