Good to know Karl.

I'm sure that correct penetration, with a 110 unit, depends on the
user to a large degree. Obviously you have the skill sets. If I stayed
with 110VAC, one option was to run a new circuit to an outdoor GFCI
outlet so I could easily run a large gauge extension cord to carport.
I could set things up in basement to weld, but would prefer doing it
outside. Depending if it's windy out or not!

For sure I'll never do production work. The duty cycles will be short.

In terms of a 15 degree I4 install, what is the proper guage/thickness
(minimum) required for an engine support/cradle?

3/16" ?

Thanks!

Neil.

On 10/2/07, Karl Mullendore <groups@westyventures.com> wrote:
> FWIW, I've been using a Hobart Handler 120 110-volt MIG for fifteen
> years in my shop, welding everything from thin sheetmetal to 3/16" plate
> to even thicker small stuff, it has performed perfectly and the welds
> have always had great penetration and strength. I will go against the
> naysayers and recommend a good 110-volt MIG as perfect for what you will
> likely be doing. If you were to get into production work where it was
> used heavily every day on 1/4" material, then yes, go with 220-volt. The
> beauty of the 110 unit is portability and usefulness almost anywhere you
> can drag it that has power.
>
> Karl
>
> neil N wrote:
>
> > So I will need to install a larger breaker in the panel. At least that
> > way I'll have a "dedicated" circuit.
> >
> > Maybe I'll get into something a little more skookum the 110V setup.
> > Like a 220V. Especially If I'm going to the trouble of running a new
> > circuit. But then I'll need two open spots on the panel..... hmm....
> > we'll see.
>

--
Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia -
"Jaco"  (Bustorius)

http://web.mac.com/tubaneil

Please send fav Vanagon/Westfalia links to me at:
musomuso1963@hotmail.com