Jim,

The standard steering uses the flat rubber joint at the steering box
input shaft.  Power steering racks require a true U-Joint which is
completely different.  They cost in excess of $200.00 new.

Mike

Jim Felder wrote:
> I got mine locally and installed them less than a week ago, so I can
> probaby tell you whatever you want to know about them.
>
> I'm talking about the rubber joints, but I replaced the V-box as well
> since it had a "flat" spot in the center and a noticeable mesh of
> gears as it was turning.
>
> So there are two alphabet parts to deal with, the U-joints and the V-box.
>
> The first thing to look at are the U-joints, the flexible joints that
> make use of the rubber plates. My local shop had brazilian and german
> ones, I opted for the higher-priced german ones at about $12.00 each.
> There are three. The two on the bottom, above and below the v-box
> (which the Bentley refers to as the reverse box, or something like
> that) are exposed to the weather and are more likely to be
> deteriorated than the upper one between the steering shaft and the
> output of the steering rack. The steering rack, by the way, is much
> more likely to be worn out than the V-box. The V-box is said to seldom
> go bad, but mine did.
>
> If you determine that it is the mechanical assembly of the V-box and
> not the just the rubber parts, be prepared for a shock. The dealer
> wants nearly $1000 for the part, and Ken Wilford of Vanagain happened
> to have one new unit left and I bought it (for a lot less than the
> dealer wanted). Anyway, they are difficult to come by in anything but
> a complete dismantle because they are required to make the body
> steerable. I had a difficult time finding a used one that anyone
> wanted to part with.
>
> Removing the box is not too difficult. Drop the windshield fluid
> reservoir by removing the 3 10 mm screws and work the pump assembly
> straight up out of the reservoir so it won't be hanging in your face
> to get to the "outside" two bolts. Remove the lower radiator cover so
> you can sit in front of the car and remove the two "inside" bolts.
>
> Two 13 mm wrenches wil be needed to disassemble the U-joints beneath
> the pedals in the car and under the car. The V-box will remove out the
> bottom.
>
> Pay attention to the 90 degree relationship of the U-joints to the
> v-box upon reassembly. Also pay attention to the fact that the horn
> wire attaches to the upper of the two U-joint assemblies and runs to a
> spade connector on the upper half of the inner steering shaft.
>
> The tricky part of reassembly will come with the last bit of rubber
> needs to go in. It won't fit without loosening the collar and removing
> the clamping bolt of the lower joint so the joint half can slide down
> and give enough room for the rubber piece to fit in. If this doesn't
> make sense now, it will make perfect sense when you go to do it.
>
> Now that the rubber is in place, you can't get the clamping bolt in
> because it is pushed out of alignment with the groove in the shaft.
> This problem can be solved by finding just the right size of
> screwdriver blade to fit between the v-box and the coupler (it has to
> be pretty sharp) and prying the coupler up the splined shaft so that
> the clamping bolt will slip through its groove, and it might need a
> few taps. The rest is trivial. Be sure to hook up your horn.
>
> Jim
>
> On 11/2/07, Miguel Pacheco <mundopacheco@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Larry, I just sold my last (used) one to a local shop. I was hunting down
>> parts for a Toyota truck and noticed they had an 85 Vanagon sitting out
>> front. I told them that if they needed any parts, quick, I had them. The
>> owner replied that he needed this steering U-joint and that it was worth
>> 100.00 to him. I don't know who carries them, but, for the owner to offer
>> the 100.00 right out of the box, it suggests that this item is pricey.
>> Good luck. Miguel
>>
>