The slider and rear hatch locks are really controlled by the drivers door
lock. Your remote lock should have only been wired to control that one and
everything will work as before. Your relay application is wrong. You will
need to get the coil in series with the lock contact to remove power after
it is in the position the lock is going to. This will not be easy and
definitely a relay should not be required.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Dug Smith
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 6:17 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: 12v relay help

Hi all,

I decided to fit an aftermarket central locking and alarm kit into my van,
and everything went swimmingly until it came to get the sliding door to
lock
/ unlock.  The standard controller doesn't send anything like enough juice
to lock or unlock the door regularly.  I figure why have central locking
if
I have to go and check the door's locked every time?

So I figured what I needed was a relay.  Well, two actually, as the lock
actuator is triggered by reversing the polarity of the electrickery going
to
it.  It's wired like the "Actuators / Reverse Polarity" setup in:
http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp

The lock now works, but I've found that the relay is drawing about 300mA
all
the time.  Are my relays bad?  Is my wiring bad?  Am I just too ugly to
have
a remote central locking system on my van?

Any insight will be appreciated :o)  I'm not good at electrickery :o)

toodle pip,
--
       Dug Smith         | Terry Pratchett: It's almost
(mailto:dug@dugbert.com) |  impossible to ride a rock and roll
(http://www.dugbert.com) |  motorbike and stay on for three verses.