

| Subject: | Re: 12v relay help |
| From: | Zeitgeist |
| Date: | Sat, 10 Nov 2007 16:46:01 -0800 |
What brand central locking setup did you purchase? I finally got tired of messing around with the finicky stock setup, and a less than stellar experience with one of our list vendors, and so opted to replace my entire system with an aftermarket setup built by MES. http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm It has Swiss-made actuators which are a direct screw-in replacement for the stock versions. I also chose a keyless entry option, which just makes sense while I'm in there. I'm still in the middle of the project, but it's really straight-forward. So far, it looks like something I'd highly recommend to anyone who's experiencing typical automatic doorlock trickery. Total cost for central locking kit + keyless entry = ~$120 Casey '89 Wolfsburg Edition On Nov 9, 2007 3:17 PM, Dug Smith <dug@dugbert.com> wrote: > Hi all, > > I decided to fit an aftermarket central locking and alarm kit into my van, > and everything went swimmingly until it came to get the sliding door to > lock > / unlock. The standard controller doesn't send anything like enough juice > to lock or unlock the door regularly. I figure why have central locking > if > I have to go and check the door's locked every time? > > So I figured what I needed was a relay. Well, two actually, as the lock > actuator is triggered by reversing the polarity of the electrickery going > to > it. It's wired like the "Actuators / Reverse Polarity" setup in: > http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp > > The lock now works, but I've found that the relay is drawing about 300mA > all > the time. Are my relays bad? Is my wiring bad? Am I just too ugly to > have > a remote central locking system on my van? > > Any insight will be appreciated :o) I'm not good at electrickery :o) > > toodle pip, > -- > Dug Smith | Terry Pratchett: It's almost > (mailto:dug@dugbert.com) | impossible to ride a rock and roll > (http://www.dugbert.com) | motorbike and stay on for three verses. >
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