Thanks for the info.  Can the outer tie rod ends be knocked out with
a hammer or pickle fork?  Or do I need some kind of special puller?
I have new tie rod ends to go with the new (rebuilt) rack.

Allan

On Dec 8, 2007, at 9:14 PM, TC wrote:

>> The parts are here, and I will soon be tackling the replacement of
>> upper ball joints and the steering rack on my '91 Vanagon GL
>
> Just did my rack today at a friends with a lift
> I'd not want the hassle if you dont have some good clearance its
> not bad if
> you have the right gear
> -lift
> -air wrench real nice if not- good socket/ wrench set, breaker/
> cheater bar
> -big 19 mm & I think 22mm long wrench
> -real nice to have a tie-rod spreader thingy to get the outside tir-
> rods off
> the wheel
> - pb blaster the 4 hold downs, outer-tie rod ends, hp/lp lines,
> steering
> collar
> -b4 you start work
>  get under there & see if the hp & lp lines will come off  w/o
> cracking
> breaking
>  if it looks bad order custom hp / lp lines
>  http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=259675
> -make sure the rebuilt rack has new bushing & good quality boots
>  (some of the cheaper units use NO name brand boots I look for some
> mfg
> marking not low life Chinese knocks offs)
> -buy the long rack with the tie rod & new outer tie-rod ends
> -roll back the inner (bigger) end of the boot on the rack & make
> sure the
> rebuilder peened the
> little washer that locks the tie - rod shaft to the power steering
> shaft
> here our r & r order
> 1. unbolt the hp feed/lp return lines let em empty out & go for coffee
> 2. pop outer the cotter pins, unbolt the outer tie-rod ends then
> get em off
> the wheel with that tie-rod spreader thingy
> 3. loosen off the steering shaft collar & hit with a couple good
> wacks to
> get it off the shaft
> 4. un-bolt the 4 hold downs that go through the mount bushings
> 5. remove from the vehicle
> 6. lay out the old & new racks & turn the steering shaft on both fully
> right( or left)
> 7. adjust the left/right outer tie rods so they are the same length
> as the
> old unit
>    (this gets you the basic right adjustment b4 you go get an
> alignment)
> 8. get the new rack in place, cost the 4 bolts with anti-seize,
> loose fit
> the 4 hold down bolts DONT tighten
> 9. get the steering shaft collar on, them wack with hammer to fit
> 10. get the outer tie rod-end in place & bolt up, install new
> cotter pins
> 11. tighten the 4 hold down bolts
> 12 attach the hp/lp lines
> 13.fill up with full the reservoir with sync atf dextron
> 14. get partner to move the steering from right to left & you go
> fill up
> resivoir as the pump captivates
> 15. check for leaks :)
> that should be about 2-3hrs depending how much rust
>
> OK that was all fresh in my head should do that more often :)
>