Scott...have you ever been up close with an east-coast/rust-belt Vanagon
brake line? It ain't purty. The flare nut wrench will spin right around.
I think he'll need some small, good-quality vice-grips. Almost every
rusty one I've seen had nothing left to use a wrench on. Def. use the PB
Blaster though. If you should be so lucky, then yes, the 11mm flare nut
wrench if the size.

Shouldn't be too difficult doing the front ones, Shawn, it's the rear
that are a PITA.

I've driven 500 miles with a blown line before...just gotta plan WAY
ahead and use the park/emergency brake a lot! You still have half the
brake circuit functional with one blown line.

Good luck...

Karl

Scott Daniel - Shazam wrote:
> Just heat the line upstream of the hole, and bend it over and hammer it
> flat, so it's closed off.
> Then proceed on 3 brakes.
> Or...........the line  has to go to a T junction or some fitting.  .  Find
> that, perhaps two feet or so from the left front area where it joins onto
> the hose, remove it, take it to a flaps and match it up, replace and bleed.
>
> 'medium hard' , that's how hard it is to do - lol !  Since it sounds like it
> failed from rust, the ends might be very, very rusted and you should start
> spraying those with PB Blaster penetrating oil right now.  And do it like
> every few hours until you start to work on it.
>
> You absolutely need a tubing nut wrench.  11 mm I think.
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
> -----Original Message-----

> Nice, I own three cars and all three had something happen to them this week.
> Relying on the syncro to get me around and to work...but tonight the pedal
> went to the floor.
>
> Looks like a Ohio rust and a break line went in the front left wheel well.
> Corrosion beyond belief.
>
> Although it's current location makes it almost impossible to work on I'm a
> strong DIYer. How rough is repair of the front brake line going to be and
> what does the procedure entail? The Bentley is not currently where I am at
> to review.