Thanks Scott, that is the info I was looking for. I was hoping it didn't run
all the way to the master cylinder and thus some real fun with a line that
far!

So tell me about brake lines.All the same different diameters? Easily
mailable it seems from you comments. Any special little bender tools to get
the turns "just right"?

Shawn

On Dec 24, 2007 8:52 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
wrote:

> Just heat the line upstream of the hole, and bend it over and hammer it
> flat, so it's closed off.
> Then proceed on 3 brakes.
> Or...........the line  has to go to a T junction or some fitting.  .  Find
> that, perhaps two feet or so from the left front area where it joins onto
> the hose, remove it, take it to a flaps and match it up, replace and
> bleed.
>
> 'medium hard' , that's how hard it is to do - lol !  Since it sounds like
> it
> failed from rust, the ends might be very, very rusted and you should start
> spraying those with PB Blaster penetrating oil right now.  And do it like
> every few hours until you start to work on it.
>
> You absolutely need a tubing nut wrench.  11 mm I think.
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> robert feller
> Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 5:30 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: lost brake line...
>
> Nice, I own three cars and all three had something happen to them this
> week.
> Relying on the syncro to get me around and to work...but tonight the pedal
> went to the floor.
>
> Looks like a Ohio rust and a break line went in the front left wheel well.
> Corrosion beyond belief.
>
> Although it's current location makes it almost impossible to work on I'm a
> strong DIYer. How rough is repair of the front brake line going to be and
> what does the procedure entail? The Bentley is not currently where I am at
> to review.
>
> --
> Shawn Feller
> Ohio
> www.carboncow.com
>
>

--
Shawn Feller
Ohio
www.carboncow.com