Gang,

Just to answer my curious mind, you guys mention a "no no" for compression
fittings. I found this site on the topic (vw too!) and he is juntioning new
and old lines together: http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm

He talks about compression fittings, is this the "no-no" you metion?

Shawn

On Dec 24, 2007 10:05 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
wrote:

> Hey Shawn, you've seen Ken's post by now.  Metric brake lines are
> 'findable'
> sometimes.
> A nice small bending too is nice to have.
> With luck you can find a 'bolt on' metric line of close to the right
> length.
> If it has to be a little too long that's fine if you mount it properly.
> And as ken said, using compression sleeve junctions is never kosher in
> brake
> lines.
> If you end up making a line yourself and need to flare the ends,
> There are two kinds of flare - single and double, or bubble as ken called
> it.
> A single flare tool costs 10 bucks, but will not work at all for your
> system.
> If you need a double flare end, sometimes you can get a shop with that
> capability to do it for you for a few bucks.
> Hopefully you'll be able to find a metric line of the right length and
> size.
>
> And you should check all the other lines, though it might be hard o see
> through the rust and crude.
> Scott
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> robert feller
> Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 6:36 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: lost brake line...
>
> Thanks Scott, that is the info I was looking for. I was hoping it didn't
> run
> all the way to the master cylinder and thus some real fun with a line that
> far!
>
> So tell me about brake lines.All the same different diameters? Easily
> mailable it seems from you comments. Any special little bender tools to
> get
> the turns "just right"?
>
> Shawn
>
> On Dec 24, 2007 8:52 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Just heat the line upstream of the hole, and bend it over and hammer it
> > flat, so it's closed off.
> > Then proceed on 3 brakes.
> > Or...........the line  has to go to a T junction or some fitting.  .
>  Find
> > that, perhaps two feet or so from the left front area where it joins
> onto
> > the hose, remove it, take it to a flaps and match it up, replace and
> > bleed.
> >
> > 'medium hard' , that's how hard it is to do - lol !  Since it sounds
> like
> > it
> > failed from rust, the ends might be very, very rusted and you should
> start
> > spraying those with PB Blaster penetrating oil right now.  And do it
> like
> > every few hours until you start to work on it.
> >
> > You absolutely need a tubing nut wrench.  11 mm I think.
> > Scott
> > www.turbovans.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of
> > robert feller
> > Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 5:30 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: lost brake line...
> >
> > Nice, I own three cars and all three had something happen to them this
> > week.
> > Relying on the syncro to get me around and to work...but tonight the
> pedal
> > went to the floor.
> >
> > Looks like a Ohio rust and a break line went in the front left wheel
> well.
> > Corrosion beyond belief.
> >
> > Although it's current location makes it almost impossible to work on I'm
> a
> > strong DIYer. How rough is repair of the front brake line going to be
> and
> > what does the procedure entail? The Bentley is not currently where I am
> at
> > to review.
> >
> > --
> > Shawn Feller
> > Ohio
> > www.carboncow.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Shawn Feller
> Ohio
> www.carboncow.com
>
>

--
Shawn Feller
Ohio
www.carboncow.com