a heck I did mean to say that I felt Bentley mentioned a lower pressure then
what you stated, but I could be very wrong w/o having one near me.

On Dec 24, 2007 11:00 PM, robert feller <syncro.carboncow@gmail.com> wrote:

> I would agree to error on the side of caution with this one for sure. I do
> believe (although I don't have it with me) that the brake lines are under
> only hundreds of lbs of pressure, but I could be brain farting.
>
> Now are not the connection to the valve block and brake a compression
> fitting too?
>
>
> On Dec 24, 2007 10:56 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <scottdaniel@turbovans.com
> > wrote:
>
> >  Particularly in the vw world there is a lot of poor or mis-information.
> >
> > The author would have you think compression fittings in brake lines are
> > just fine.
> >
> > It's a hack repair.
> >
> > Might work for a good long time even, but it's not right.
> >
> > There's up to 2,000 psi I believe in brake lines.
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > *From:* robert feller [mailto:syncro.carboncow@gmail.com]
> > *Sent:* Monday, December 24, 2007 7:38 PM
> > *To:* Scott Daniel - Shazam
> > *Cc:* vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
> > *Subject:* Re: lost brake line...
> >
> >
> >
> > Gang,
> >
> > Just to answer my curious mind, you guys mention a "no no" for
> > compression fittings. I found this site on the topic (vw too!) and he is
> > juntioning new and old lines together:
> > http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm
> >
> > He talks about compression fittings, is this the "no-no" you metion?
> >
> > Shawn
> >
> > On Dec 24, 2007 10:05 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <
> > scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hey Shawn, you've seen Ken's post by now.  Metric brake lines are
> > 'findable'
> > sometimes.
> > A nice small bending too is nice to have.
> > With luck you can find a 'bolt on' metric line of close to the right
> > length.
> > If it has to be a little too long that's fine if you mount it properly.
> > And as ken said, using compression sleeve junctions is never kosher in
> > brake
> > lines.
> > If you end up making a line yourself and need to flare the ends,
> > There are two kinds of flare - single and double, or bubble as ken
> > called
> > it.
> > A single flare tool costs 10 bucks, but will not work at all for your
> > system.
> > If you need a double flare end, sometimes you can get a shop with that
> > capability to do it for you for a few bucks.
> > Hopefully you'll be able to find a metric line of the right length and
> > size.
> >
> > And you should check all the other lines, though it might be hard o see
> > through the rust and crude.
> > Scott
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> > Of
> > robert feller
> >
> > Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 6:36 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >
> > Subject: Re: lost brake line...
> >
> > Thanks Scott, that is the info I was looking for. I was hoping it didn't
> > run
> > all the way to the master cylinder and thus some real fun with a line
> > that
> > far!
> >
> > So tell me about brake lines.All the same different diameters? Easily
> > mailable it seems from you comments. Any special little bender tools to
> > get
> > the turns "just right"?
> >
> > Shawn
> >
> > On Dec 24, 2007 8:52 PM, Scott Daniel - Shazam <
> > scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Just heat the line upstream of the hole, and bend it over and hammer
> > it
> > > flat, so it's closed off.
> > > Then proceed on 3 brakes.
> > > Or...........the line  has to go to a T junction or some fitting.  .
> >  Find
> > > that, perhaps two feet or so from the left front area where it joins
> > onto
> > > the hose, remove it, take it to a flaps and match it up, replace and
> > > bleed.
> > >
> > > 'medium hard' , that's how hard it is to do - lol !  Since it sounds
> > like
> > > it
> > > failed from rust, the ends might be very, very rusted and you should
> > start
> > > spraying those with PB Blaster penetrating oil right now.  And do it
> > like
> > > every few hours until you start to work on it.
> > >
> > > You absolutely need a tubing nut wrench.  11 mm I think.
> > > Scott
> > > www.turbovans.com
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com ] On
> > Behalf Of
> > > robert feller
> > > Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 5:30 PM
> > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > > Subject: lost brake line...
> > >
> > > Nice, I own three cars and all three had something happen to them this
> > > week.
> > > Relying on the syncro to get me around and to work...but tonight the
> > pedal
> > > went to the floor.
> > >
> > > Looks like a Ohio rust and a break line went in the front left wheel
> > well.
> > > Corrosion beyond belief.
> > >
> > > Although it's current location makes it almost impossible to work on
> > I'm a
> > > strong DIYer. How rough is repair of the front brake line going to be
> > and
> > > what does the procedure entail? The Bentley is not currently where I
> > am at
> > > to review.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Shawn Feller
> > > Ohio
> > > www.carboncow.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Shawn Feller
> > Ohio
> > www.carboncow.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Shawn Feller
> > Ohio
> > www.carboncow.com
> >
>
>
>
> --
>
> Shawn Feller
> Ohio
> www.carboncow.com
>

--
Shawn Feller
Ohio
www.carboncow.com