Thanks Mike.  I will leave the oil ports alone.

I will follow this part of the blueprinting instructions I received from
aircooled.net with my new pump:

"Idle pressure can be substantially increased by sanding the pump face
on some glass and sandpaper (150 grit); do this until you are rubbing
the gears. Be sure to use dykem (machinist's dye) to ensure it is 100%
flat and use a TI paper gasket between the pump, with a small amount of
Curil or Hylomar).

Installation on assembled engine: Loosen the case bolts on either side
of the oil pump hole (3 nuts each way will do), to allow the case to
spread enough so the pump will slide in without Brute Force. Install the
pump gasket (thick one) with a thin layer of sealer (silicone RTV is
common) on either side (not too much, or you'll have "silicone snakes"
in your oil). Install the gasket. Now install the pump body, making sure
that the drive gear hole is on TOP. Tap it in carefully with a rubber
mallet or a hammer and a block of wood. This ensures that you don't
screw up the soft aluminium pump body.
 
Install the top gear into the pump, and install it OUT OF INDEX (not in
the slot). Measure the distance from the gear to the pump body. What you
are doing is measuring the drive gear engagement, and it must be between
.235- 275". If it is outside this range, you must remove the drive gear,
and press the gear on/off the shaft further until the proper engagement
is achieved. A vice and some sockets are all you need to press it in or
out. Make sure you don't press the gear or drive shaft directly with the
vice, or you may be ordering another pump real soon!"

I hope this is useful information for other.  BTW I measured the oil
pump cover gasket I received with the Victor Reinz gasket kit and it
measured .008" which is twice the thickness that it should be.  The one
I got with the Schadeck oil pump was right on at .004".

Pascal
'84 Westy