You got it Mike. You need the positive pressure to push the coolant into the
rad so that the air up there can be displaced and bled out.  Then you can
replace it at the reservoir, close the system and let it do the final
bleeding by itself.

On Jan 8, 2008 3:17 PM, Mike <mbucchino@charter.net> wrote:

>  IIRC, I had to hold engine RPM's revved up while reservoir cap was open.
> This will allow the water pump to 'pull' the fluid level down enough so it
> won't overflow while you're topping it off.
>
> Anyone else concur?
>
> Mike B.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Sullivan" <sandwichhead@YAHOO.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 5:33 PM
> Subject: Oil Cooler and Bleeding
>
>
> > Just got my hoses from http://www.bus-boys.com/index.htm and gonna put
> > them in. Pretty easy job, but wanted to bleed system due to loss while
> > removing the cooler.  Wanted to clarify: 15% angle(front up) and warm up
> > w/heater. Bleed front till no air and top off in rear?
> >  Any idea(no torque wrench, my kid borrowed) how tight the retainer nut
> > goes on the cooler?It's about 27mm or 30mm
> >  Thnaks, Michael
> >  91GL'Gringo'.
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Michael Sullivan
> >
>

--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
Crescent Beach, BC
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/