When I had this syndrome I fixed it by removing the starter and cleaning it
and everything around it as well as the tranny ground and so on. I also
replaced the wire ends as they were corroded and failing. When I looked
through the archives at the time that process seemed to be the most common
fix by far, so it may be worth trying first. I know you said you don't have
your tools on you but in most places you could get one of those 'road tool
kits' or a similar type tool kit that would have most of what you need to do
the job pretty cheap-like.

Cya
Robert

On 1/16/08, TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I've known of this problem.  I had a 79 bus that has this relay
> setup.  I'm
> just in disbelief (reason unknown) but it sure is sounding like the likely
> cause.  I guess I just didn't want to believe it could be this and was
> sure
> it was a "hard" part failure.  So much for gut instinct.  For the record,
> I
> did in fact, clean a bunch of grounds off back in the engine bay and the
> tranny area.  Unbelievably, they were clean.  Weird, especially for
> coastal
> Florida.  OH, I made a typo on the original post.  I meant to say
> "Ignition
> switch" and not "Starter" switch.  Thanks to Jake de Villiers for pointing
> that out to me.  No need to confuse anyone more than I already have.  I
> heard the old standard Ford relay is the relay of choice for this due to
> it's simplicity and low price.
>
> Thanks,
>
> TJ
>
>
> On 1/16/08, Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > This is a very common problem.  You should be able to find quite a bit
> in
> > the archives.  I believe that one or more of the vendors sells a "hard
> start
> > relay" kit.  The problem is caused by a marginal design, resistance at
> the
> > start terminals in the ignition switch, aged wiring with corroded
> > connections, gummed up solenoid, vanagon gremlins, or any combination of
> > these.
> >   The solution is usually to put a hefty relay in a location near the
> > starter, like under the back seat.  When activated, it should make a
> > connection between the large positive terminal on the solenoid and the
> start
> > terminal.  The wire that originally connected to the start terminal is
> used
> > to activate the relay, so the relay is the only load on the circuit from
> the
> > ignition switch.
> >   My own measurements indicate that the solenoid coil draws about 37
> amps,
> > so I feel that the relay should be rated for 50 A or more.
> >   Dennis Haynes has expressed concern that arcing at the relay contacts
> > might weld them together and keep the starter running.  I have not seen
> any
> > reports of this happening.  I believe he recommended a special type of
> relay
> > which is used in some RVs.
> >
> > HTH
> > Larry A.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Jan 16, 2008 4:56 PM, TJ Hemrick <x53gunner@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > All,
> > >  I've been hunting a mysterious starter problem and I need your help.
> > >  It's
> > > crunch time and I can't tolerate this problem anymore.  It's an 87
> > > Wolfie GL
> > > Automatic.  The starter slowly stopped engaging after key rotation.
> > >  Slowly
> > > as in more frequently over a 2-3 month period until it finally quit
> > > engaging.  So, being the vw geek I am, I dove underneath with metal in
> > > hand
> > > to jump the contacts.  I ordered a replacement switch, put it in, it
> > > just
> > > barely hesitated but started like normal otherwise.  I figured it had
> > > been
> > > so long since it did that correctly, I must not have noticed the
> delay.
> > > Wrong answer-there is no discernable delay.  It just quit working 2-3
> > > days
> > > later.  It starts just fine each and every time I jump the terminals
> on
> > > the
> > > solenoid.  Every once in a while it will rotate and start but only
> after
> > > a
> > > 3-6 second delay.  After a previous post to the group, I checked a few
> > > items
> > > but no luck.  I've wiggled the gear selector (and even ran it though
> the
> > > entire range) while holding the key in the start position.  I've
> jiggled
> > > the
> > > key.  No change from either of those.  Is there a way to bypass the
> > > neutral
> > > safety switch for testing.  I'm not near my tools currently (long
> story)
> > > or
> > > I'd have the console around the selector in pieces already.  Can
> ANYONE
> > > think of ANYTHING else that might be doing this?  I'm pretty sure that
> > > if
> > > the start rotates when I jump it, it's 99% good.  New starter switch
> > > bad?
> > > Possible, but not likely.  Especially since it has the exact same
> > > symptons with the old switch.  Someone put me out of my misery.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > TJ
> > >
> >
> >
>