Thanks for the info on the ground - that's what I'm look at now, as well as the connection on the light switch as I did disconnect that when I removed the whole cluster.

Yup, that replacement isn't SUPPOSED to require soldering - you are correct. 
What I found when I took the cluster off was that the "3-pin socket" (I referred to as a female connector) was broken off the board at one point. I had to re-solder that connector back onto the board. I think my PO was not as careful/anal as I am about these things.

> Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:35:31 -0500
> From: d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM
> Subject: Re: Voltage Stabilizer and headlights connected now....??
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> 
> The gauge voltage regulator was originally mounted on three socket pins.
> Replacement did not require soldering.
> 
> The other symptoms you are now having could be a bad connection on the
> multi pin connector or a bad ground connection.
> 
> Dennis
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Ben Cichowski
> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 5:04 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Voltage Stabilizer and headlights connected now....??
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> here's the story. For a while, I was having fuel and temp gauge problems
> (ready too high....way to high on both). I traced the problem to the
> voltage stabilizer (the little 3 prong guy behind the dash).
> Intermittently, I would also notice complete failures...like when I would
> go over a bump, etc. So, I thought there may be some connection issues,
> and others confirmed that was likely the case.
> 
> I ordered and received a new stabilizer this weekend - I took off the
> gauge cluster and looked behind to see the small, plastic, female
> connection for the voltage stabilizer. Sure enough, one of the tabs that
> connects it to the printed circuit was broken off the board - probably the
> cause of my intermittent failures. I carefully removed the old stabilizer
> and took a chance on some ultra-precision soldering to re-attach the
> female receiver....success...I think.....(read below).
> 
> With the new stabilizer in, everything reads correctly - yeah! But...when
> I turn on my headlights, the red led for the coolant level/warning blinks
> for about 3 seconds. When I hit the brights, it blinks for 5 seconds.
> There are no other abnormalities other than this, but I'm wondering if my
> soldering smoked something on the board, or connected something that isn't
> supposed to be connected, etc. These things are kind of delicate of
> course, and not made to be re-soldered, but my only other choice was to
> find a new circuit board.
> 
> And yes, everything was completely disconnected when I soldered - I took
> the cluster completely out of the vehicle. It is not very bothersome, I'm
> just wondering if this is something I should be concerned about...anyone
> else have similar issues?
> 
> (side note: the new VS fits like crap compared to the old one....I ordered
> it based on my specific model '88 Wolfsburg Vanagon...are there different
> Voltage stabilizers for different years and I was sent the wrong one? -
> That'll really bunch my boxers if I find out that is the case)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 14:48:26 -0500
> > From: kdlewis@NORTHSTATE.NET
> > Subject: Re: WTB CV joint "backing plate"
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >
> > Jim,
> > What's your mailing address, I'll get one in the mail.
> > Ken Lewis
> >
> >
> > On Mon, February 18, 2008 11:28 am, Jim Felder wrote:
> > > I need the reinforcing or backing plate that goes under the bolts of a
> > > vanagon CV joint.
> > > Does anyone have one to sell?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > >
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
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