

| Subject: | Re: CV joints |
| From: | Max Wellhouse |
| Date: | Tue, 19 Feb 2008 19:09:20 -0600 |
I have used a lot of different greses over the years on my buses. Prolly had the best luck with the red Amsoil synthetic, but I haven't found a souce for it up here in Iowa and have back slid into using the grease in the Meiserstatz kits. I grew up raised on MoS2 and had a gallon bottle of moly additive for the engine oil that you put like a teaspoon in each oil change for the air cooled Vdub motors. YMMV DM&FS At 04:40 AM 2/19/2008, John Rodgers wrote: >To keep the ball chaos to a minimum, I use an electric vibratory >engraving tool and mark each groove on the rim of the race.. The inner >and outer race is given an alignment mark. The ball from each groove is >put into it's own little plastic baggie and given a number matching it's >goove mark. When all is clean, everything goes back as marked. This >process is a PITA for some, but the cherry on the cake for others. Yuh >makes yer choices. > >Regards, > >John Rodgers >88 GL driver > >Scott Daniel - Shazam wrote: >>All right, then you better get 250,000 miles out of your CV joints. >> >>How do you keep the balls straight ? like know which groove a ball came >>from. >>They're not marked or color coded or anything. >> >>Have you measured any of the balls with a micrometer to try to find any >>measurable difference. >>I would think you'd be very, very into 'rotating' your CV's, that is install >>them so they drive the other way. >>You'll notice in the groove they get more worn in one area from always >>pushing on that one spot. >>They can be fitted to the 'push' or drive the other way, to spread out the >>wear more evenly over many miles, the same as tire rotation does. >> >>Surely you are also into this nuance of long CV joint life., mmm ? >>Scott >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of >>John Rodgers >>Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 5:02 PM >>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >>Subject: Re: CV joints >> >>Many have commented about NOT putting the balls back into the original >>grooves. That aspect of the maintenance of the CV's is one of those GOP >>things. Not a political statement, in this case GOP does not stand for >>"Grand Old Party" but instead stands for "Good Operating Practice". It >>is the cherry on the topping on the cake. It is that little extra thing >>that makes the job better than the next guy's. >> >>Consider that the balls and the grooves wear together. They develop a >>"wear fit". If you swap the balls around, the fit is now disturbed, and >>the balls and groves have to "wear in" again. At the outset, in the new >>"ball-in-groove" relationship the wear will be high until the fit has >>been worn in. All of this is going to produce extra heat of friction, >>and wear, making the parts more loose than in the original position. >>Additionally, there will be increased vibration, which in turn will add >>to the wear. Now, as a practical matter, there won't be much if any >>initial apparent problem of any sort. The CV will prol'ly run many >>thousands of miles with no obvious problems, but over time, the life of >>the CV will be shortened. It all boils down to how much you care about >>the condition of your balls. >> >>Regards, >> >>John Rodgers >>88 GL Driver who wants his balls to last forever. >> >>Rob wrote: >> >>>I'm doing CV joints, buying a tube of grease rather than the 4 >>>initial bags of it was my first (and only so far) mistake. I had to >>>put about 1/4 of the tube into a ziplock sandwich bag, zipped it shut >>>and cut a corner off to squeeze it into the joints. >>>My pitman puller worked GREAT to pull the joint off the shaft, I had >>>to take the joint apart first but it works well with zero stress to >>>the parts. >>>Good directions in the Bentley for reassy the joint. >>> >>> >>> >>>Rob >>>becida@comcast.net >>> >>> >> >>
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