Exactly. When I hear the prices and obtainability of some of these switches,
it seems worth it to protect them in any way possible. I figure there's
nothing wrong with a good, wrapped solder joint either, which I prefer over
connectors. Usually the soldering is the most minor part of such a job.
Jim

On Wed, Mar 5, 2008 at 10:08 PM, Joe Federici <joefederici@earthlink.net>
wrote:

> Jim-
>
>
> I faced the same problem. You either have to crack the heater box
> open in the van and undo the wired at the motor, discount the wire at
> the heater switch or cut it. I tried to release it from the switch
> but couldn't easily do it and cut the wire. My reasoning was I'd
> rather use a butt connecter then trash the connecter or the plug.
>
> JFF
>
>
> On Mar 5, 2008, at 5:05 PM, Mark Drillock wrote:
>
> The wires come from a connector plugged into the back of the heater fan
> switch. There is also a brown ground wire running over to the main
> ground stars where it can be unplugged. The power wire from the fuse
> panel to the fan switch connector can be released from the connector
> shell with a jewelers flat blade screwdriver.
>
> Mark
>
> Jim Felder wrote:
> > I just now got to the point where I could lift the heater core of
> > my 90
> > clear of its mounts... except for one thing: the wires that power and
> > control the heater motor.
> > Is there a connector I am not seeing? Do most people just cut them and
> > solder them back later?
> >
> > I read everything I could find on the list about removing the dash and
> > heater, and because of that information it was a very quick job, no
> > problems
> > at all. Until these wires!
> >
> > Also, what is the tall silver electronic box that bracket to the
> > crossmember
> > behind the blove box and just to the right of the heater plenum? It
> > has a
> > bunch of wires going to it.
> >
> > Jim
> >
>
>