When you talk about not disturbing seals in a master cylinder ( old seals of
course ) 

There's a firm rule that for a used brake master cylinder you never do full
stokes., since the pedal normaly never goes down than half way, so if you
full stroke it, you'll be sliding the seals over a rough area of the old
cylinder wall.

 

A clutch master cylinder always does full strokes, so doing full strokes in
manual clutch bleeding on those is all right.

I just like the 'feel' of feeling the fluid get pushed through.

You can even get a sense of how good the master cylinder is by how good it
feels with lots of experience....

Every tech just works out what they believe and in and what works for them.

If they like pressure bleeding and swear by it, very good.

There's  more than one way that is 'right.'

It's the result you produce that matters - as long as you get that, that's
all that's important, regardless of method.

 

It's really dumb for anyone to get massively attached to their method being
the only right way, not commenting on anything on this list however, at
least not lately.

Scott

www.turbovans.com <http://www.turbovans.com/>   

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
TC
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 2:39 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: clutch bleeding

 

> No special tools or rigs are needed to bleed vanagon clutch hydraulic

> systems.

> My 'rig' cost 50 cents, and has performed flawlessly on the last 65 clutch

> hydraulic clutch bleedings on vanagons, or the last 265 times I did.

> You do have to know what you're doing of course,

> But I personally DO NOT recommend pressure bleeders.

> Scott

> Turbovans

>

> I have a pressure bleeder too btw, collecting dust on the shelf.

> I think it's better to use the master cylinder itself to bleed the system.

Is that because you think it is less likely to disturb sediment it line that

can lead to seal failure ??

let sleeping dog lie ...

 

 

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