When I put a helicoils into my head with the engine installed (#1
exhaust port), I first, using a drill press, drilled holes into two 2X2
blocks of wood to be used as guides for both drilling out the head and
for guiding the tap.  By placing the first block against the exhaust
port and using a right angle drill, I was able to drill perfectly
straight holes.  Then placing the 2nd block against the exhaust port
(slightly larger hole in the block of wood) I was able to tap the holes
straight.

Use a new stud or bolt of the correct size to show you how deep to
drill.  Take into consideration the thickness of the exhaust flange and
washer.

My upper hole was a bit oval near the outer end where the old loose bolt
had jumped up and down a bit so I ended up using 2 helicoils in that
hole ... actually 1 and 3/4 helicoils.  I bottomed the first one then
measured and cut a bit off the 2nd one so it ended up just below the
surface when done.

Anyway, my repair turned out to be a good one.  :)

Mike

thomas LaPointe wrote:
> Good Morning all...
>
> I have been searching the archives, but have  not found any repair advice on
> replacing the exhaust studs on the waterleaker heads. we need to rebuild a
> set I have and have done one with helicoil, but wondered if there is a more
> proper/better way to do this. how do the professional shops do this?
> especially lining up the drill/press to drill a proper hole. also, how deep
> can you go before striking water!
> thanks, Thomas
>
>
> --
> 1985 Full Westy "Rustfalia"
> 1982 Full Westy "dead engine"
> 1991 GL
> 1972 Honda Z600 2 cyl
>