Having all the right tools and facilities is indeed nice, but I dropped
my tranny and replaced the clutch, unassisted I might add, in my
hardpack gravel driveway using jackstands all around.  I didn't think it
was all that tough of a job. I used a couple of roll around jacks in the
process.  Oh, I did put platforms under each jackstand so they wouldn't
sink in.

Mike

VW Doka wrote:
> I'm with Ben on this one and I'd bet 99% of professional mechanics would
> agree that having a lift is better than not.
>
> Additionally, every method Scott listed below is easier to do with a lift.
> You want it a couple of feet of the ground... raise the lift a couple of
> feet of the ground.  You want to use a floor jack for the tranny... lower
> the van and use the floor jack.
>
> Jack stands suck!  They always seem to get in the way.  For most, they are a
> necessity, but definitely, not as efficient as a lift.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf
> Of Scott Daniel - Shazam
> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 2:36 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: clutch time
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Isn't that funny. I don't consider it arguing at all, and I think 'lively
> debate' is wonderful and healthy.
>
> And - I'll tell you all the things 'wrong' with working on a lift.
>
>
>
> One, your arms get very tired holding them above your head while standing.
> Some professionals that do this 25 years, 25 hours a weak, suffer from
> conditions similar to carpal tunnel and /or numbness.   I find about 8 time
> easier to lay on my back on a creeper, or even a piece of cardboard, and
> reach up to things that are just a couple of feet above me.
>
>
>
> Two - every time you need undo something 'up there' ..and granted there
> won't be much of that in a vanagon - but then, you have to either  lower the
> car back down, or get out a step ladder to undo that thing up there you
> forgot.
>
> Three - you need a special transmission jack,a  stall one, to deal with the
> trans 6 feet up in the air.  When the bottom of the van is only about 2 feet
> from the ground it is so much easier to deal with - you can almost
> 'drop-fudge' it the ground in that short distance.  A floor jack is just
> fine even for lowering it.
>
>
>
> I've had a shop with a lift.  I had one for 50 dollars a month rent once,
> with a working hydraulic lift.   I have no need for a lift at all.
>
> You look at how race cars are built - which since I do a lot of conversion
> and 'building' work, I tend to see it as building up a chassis sometimes -
> cars like that start out getting built on a table even, and typically a race
> car is supported a couple feet off the ground - that way you can work on the
> sides, the top, and the bottom.  Plus it's safer overall to not have it way
> up in the air.  Plus you don't need that much ceiling height above the
> vehicle.
>
>
>
> I raise the whole van equally front and rear. It's more natural to have it
> sitting level. One 'mistake' I see back yard type techs make is not
> providing good access to what they are trying to work on.
>
>   You need a flat level smooth hard floor, and a roof over it at least, and
> 4 solid jack stands. Truck size ones, not little dinky car ones.   And the
> ractething type too- not the pin in a hole type..nice big solid mutha, and
> TWO floor jacks.
>
>  Then you can do anything pretty much.  Lower engines and transmissions and
> so forth.  How did I ever get by without a cherry picker for 4 decades !!? -
> I use overhead lifting from supported beams, for front engine cars,  or even
> an old fashioned tripod made from trees- though that's much more an outdoor
> back year  thing.
>     but 4 very decent floor stands and ideally two floor jacks - works just
> great.  Safer and more convenient overall.
>
>   For people that do a LOT of transmission pulling, I can understand a lift,
> and the last time I used one - same deal, had to climb up a step ladder and
> reach in over the fender to undo something from the top.
>
>     And holding my arms above my head a lot while standing - no thank you.
> 'taint healthy.
>
> Scott
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Benny boy
> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 7:59 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: clutch time
>
>
>
> Hi Brendan, i don't want to argue with Scott but if you don't have a lift,
>
> and i guess you don'T, it's not that fun and easy to do that on the ground!
>
>
>
> It is possible to do so but by raising the front! Then, lowering the trany
>
> and pull this one foward.
>
>
>
> Buy the SASCH kit, nothing else. Believe me, i have tried many.
>
>
>
> Now, i agrre with Scott, you DON'T want a lighter flywheel on a stock Boxer
>
> engine.
>
>
>
> Cheers, Ben
>
> http://www.benplace.com/
>
>
>
> On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:39:47 -0700, Brendan Slevin <totorovan@GMAIL.COM>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>> I know I should've done it when I had the engine out in September but. . .
>
>
>> I think I may need to replace Totoro's clutch in the next couple months.  I
>
>> felt, for the second time in a couple months, the clutch slip after
> shifting
>
>> into second on a moderate hill.  I am wondering what the best kit is and
>
>> also, can the replacement happen with out removing the engine entirely? Any
>
>> tips are greatly appreciated.  Are there lightened flywheels out there for
>
>> the 1.9 engine?
>
>
>> Brendan
>
>> 84 GL Totoro
>
>> Bend, OR
>
>
>
>
>
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