Thanks, all. It is good to have such immediate improvement on such a small
repair.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, Mar 22, 2008 at 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: Battery and alternator - generic auto electric
To: mordo <helmut.blong@gmail.com>
Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com

Sounds like you've fixed it Mordo.   :)

Corrosion can really cut the electrical transfer - that's why the repeated
mantra of "Clean your grounds!"

On Sat, Mar 22, 2008 at 4:09 PM, mordo <helmut.blong@gmail.com> wrote:

> This morning, I put a multimeter to the battery and I got 11.9-12.0 volts
> at
> idle. I took both the alternator and the battery to the LAPS (F left out
> intentionally) to have them tested. The battery and alernator both test
> okay. This is a tester at an Advance Auto that only says "PASS" or "FAIL".
> I
> didn't see a voltage reported on its display. The battery is strong with
> no
> indication of weak cells.
>
> I replaced one of the large ring terminals on a red lead, not the one to
> the
> starter. I assume this is to the battery, yes? It was crusty and the
> insulation was cracked. I cleaned up all other terminals and connections
> and
> now I get 13.9 volts at idle. If 13.8-14.5 volts is acceptable, do we
> think
> I can attribute this low-ish voltage to corrosion in cables or should I be
> concerned about the alternator still?
>
>
>  Thanks one and all. I will test the alternator and battery at my FLAPS.
> >
> >
>
> Cheers,
>
> --
> mordo
> 1990 Carat
>

--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
Crescent Beach, BC
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27

--
mordo
1990 Carat